Dwarf Mulberry Trees

Raf,

Do you grow any Kokuso? if yes, how good is it compare to the others above.

Tony

never had kokusoā€“until now, as @Chills kindly included it in the juju budwood package. All i know about it is that it is korean, so probably very hardy in Omaha winters. Scott grows his in Michigan, and that says a lot about its winter-hardiness!
going back to pakistani, just like the other ā€˜macrouraā€™(the gerardi), being purportedly from the himalayas, but for some reason pakistani is not as cold hardy as gerardi.

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Thanks,

Jujus,

Thanks for all the infos.

Tony

happy to help!

That pretty accurately describes the growth of my in ground Gerardi, as well. I took a tape measure to it yesterday, and itā€™s 4.5ā€™ tall and over 5ā€™ wide. If I remember correctly, it was 15" to 18" tall when I planted it almost exactly four years ago. While Iā€™ve done some pruning, itā€™s all been focused on eliminating very low horizontal branches and encouraging it to a more upward habit.

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The USDA suspects Geraldi to be an alba/nigra hybrid. It might have no himalayan/macroura ancestry at all. It was discovered at the former Geraldi Nursery in Illinois:

https://npgsweb.ars-grin.gov/gringlobal/accessiondetail.aspx?1564295

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oh yeah, i remember seeing your post about it recently. That it has nigra genes definitely explains the sluggish growth.

The fruit of the Geraldi also has the long filaments,that Nigras show.At least my Black Beauty did. Brady

good to hear gerardiā€™s grow faster, even if just a bit, outside of vegas.

Can any mulberry expert here tell me how to tell if the everbearing morus nigra is starting a second crop? Mine has little white things next to existing leaves and Iā€™m wondering if these are new fruits forming or new leaves? Just finished fruiting for round 1 so wanted to cut it back to try to encourage a second crop but wondering if it is fruiting on itā€™s own without being cut back? Thanks :slight_smile:

Whitman Farms is excellent. Lucille is a great lady! Dwarf Geraldi has very good mulberries, good size and grows well in containers.

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My potted Shangri-La dropped most of its berries (Iā€™m guessing as a result of repotting/root pruning this spring), but Iā€™ve had a chance to sample a couple and compare to my in-ground Geraldi (which is fruiting prolifically for the first time). When fully ripe, both are very sweet with no significant acidity, and both are very good. So far, at least, Iā€™m not tasting a whole lot of difference between the two. Iā€™m finding that I like the fruits picked both fully ripe and a little immature ā€“ the latter have a sharp acidity thatā€™s quite enjoyable.

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Many threads with Gerardiā€¦ I picked this one.

So I purchased a Gerardi mulberry from Edible Landscaping.

Arrived and planted 8/11/23.

The tree pushed one bud node about 1/2 up the trunk. It had a few blossoms initially that dropped.

Anyway that shoot has grown well in just 5 weeks and is now as tall as the original single trunk tree.

First time growing mulberryā€¦ Iā€™ve never seen one or eaten one. Went with dwarf for my space limits.

Iā€™d say itā€™s taken well with that growth, but with all the talk about misidentified mulberries, does the leaf pictured here look too large for Gerardi?


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Looks larger than the leaves on mine, but the age of the tree, growing conditions, weather, etc can impact leaf size.

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I guess Iā€™ll be posting photos next summer on how itā€™s doing and how it looks to see if someone can figure it out.

Iā€™d think a young tree like mine only in the ground for a bit more than a month would produce smaller leaves than an older tree.

Of course it canā€™t produce larger leaves than an older tree Iā€™d think.

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I often find the opposite to be true. Young trees, especially if theyā€™re a bit shaded, will often produce super-size leaves. If you peruse through the various persimmon grafting threads, youā€™ll see a lot of examples of much larger than normal leaves on vigorously growing grafts.

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Well Iā€™m a mulberry virgin soā€¦:grin:

BTW here are two photos showing the internode spacing.

One is last yearā€™s wood. The next is this yearā€™s new shoot.

It looks like the older wood spacing is 2-3/4" to 3" while this new shoot is 3-4".

Iā€™ve read in one website of a 2 inch spacing.

Maybe access to light also affects this.

Itā€™s in a pretty sunny spot with a bit of shade in the first 3 hours of daylight and the last 1 or 2 hours.

It does appear that as you get towards the end of the new growth the internode is smaller, unless that stretches as the growth moves forward.


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Apparently, I need to look at my trees more often. I just checked on mine, and the leaves appear to be comparable in size to what you show.

Re: internode spacing, that can vary quite a bit with environment as well. If itā€™s growing very vigorously or reaching for light, it might have longer internodes.

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@alliumnate commented in my Edible Landscaping thread that Gerardi did have further internode spacing on older wood, so I think I am just seeing the base growth of the tree which is putting on the longer nodes.

With all the chatter about mislabeled trees, I got a bit worried when I say the new shoot growth.

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Hi Shibumi,

Iā€™m not completely convinced that my EL ā€˜Gerardiā€™ is the true Gerardi (largely due the growth rate and the internode spacing on old growth). That being said, it was my best producing mulberry this year, and the fruits were large compared to my others. Alsoā€¦ the fruits were a good mix of sweet with a little red mulberry tartness. I really enjoyed the flavor, and of course the good yield!

Whether itā€™s Gerardi or not, this is currently my favorite mulberry. And it does have better dwarfing traits than my dwarf everbearing mulberry. I wouldnā€™t recommend that plant to anybody (stretchy plant with small, sporadic fruit).

Iā€™m going to get another Gerardi (probably from Whitmanā€™s) to see how it compares.

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