If you are using wood chips or similar organic mulch you probably don’t want any additional K. For some apple varieties too much K may inhibit calcium absorption and cause corking, at least in vigorous trees. It is a problem with several of the varieties I grow on 111 rootstock- I won’t give them my urine either. In acidic soils free K can be acquired from you fire place. Potash, which also contains trace minerals and some readily available P.
When people say anecdotally that a fertilizer works for them, probably 9 times out of 10 it is the affect of the N they are seeing. If they’ve never seen a particular deficiency in a tree how can they know what adding it to the soil is doing for them?
Commercial growers use leaf analysis along with soil analysis to try to figure out exactly what their trees aren’t getting from the native soil. In the business you can’t afford to waste money.
No, time released granules. The new time release materials, some patented like what Florikan developed with NASA. Usually it’s more accurate to half the rated life. Like Anderson rates at 8 months, so I rate at 4 months. HYR Brix says to apply in fall after dormant and leave all winter, so I would assume they are taking that into account even though it is rated for once a season. I tried the HYR Brix Corn fertilizer and I must say I got the biggest yield I ever had. Corn is a huge nitrogen hog. It suggests applying in the spring on that one. Before planting seed. They claim their products improve soil biology. Unlike what you hear from others. I don’t care as I feed the soil all year myself. Yesterday I dumped a few pounds of coffee grounds on everything. I shred leaves and use as mulch or to protect plants. I grow many plants in ground that are not hardy here by protecting them, like figs, but not as much work!
Drew, I totally agree with the way you buy and use your fertilizing applications.
I use Peters H/P 25/5/15.mainly for my citrus collection, plus use added micro’s.
My organics are forest farm products, also for citrus/avocado/Jaboticaba.
For figs?, I use anything leftover. Inground? Don’t need anything. Last month I bought a lot of Osmocote plus but also regular Osmocote from Walmart, 3 dollars (8lb) containers. I am good for a long while. Oh forgot, Turface for repotting next month. Not going in the field looking for cow chips.
Along the East coast, our soil is neutral and a little acidic. In general fig like a little alkaline soil. So some lime application is beneficial, but not required. Since most of my in-ground trees are young (1, 2 year old), some spring fertilizer is beneficial too. But for established (5+ year), fertilizer probably is not needed.
Most of the discussions are for the container trees. They need a lot of things. Some use compost based potting mix and extra N is needed.
In NY and CT it tends to be alkaline close to the ocean. I have actually started running into more and more alkaline soil for some reason, even further from the ocean- usually in the mid 7’s. Around me it tends to be in the upper 5’s and can use some limestone.
In general, we have more forest coverage along the East coast due to heavy rainfalls. When leaves fall and decay, the leaf mould and humus tend to be acidic. This is where and how we can find wild blueberry growing in wooded areas in Jersey Pine Barren, most parts of NY and PA too. The rocks from mountain areas can release calcium and turn into alkaline soil.
It is just opposite in the native Mediterranean region. Lack of rainfall, rocky land and old volcano lava turn the native soil into alkaline. That is how they grow the tasty figs.
Thanks! I have a lot of cuttings and some started, I’m good. I just didn’t know what I should do for this fig, and the others I am getting established. Sounds like I should go ahead and pull soil samples for each location. I hadn’t done anything as the bush got established, besides prune and fend off hornets.
Will that grow here? I’ve had lots of fruit from Hardy Chicago, trying other Mt Etna types. Other people have Brown Turkey of various kinds, I am not certain all are actual. Much warmer than 40 years ago, but how warm…
My understanding is that in ground figs, other than cold hardiness and adequate water, can handle and do well with many soil conditions and are less picky as long as it’s not an extreme situation (like planting in mine spoil or super salty ocean areas etc). But I’m no soil scientist and I’m still behind on practical real world experience with growing.
You are correct. My figs grow in soil that is about 6.0. I find that works best for me. Most universities suggest 6.5 for figs. I don’t use much calcium either as most soil has a lot. Plenty in fertilizers and such too. Although it may help to add calcium. I’m satisfied with growth. So no reason to make adjustments. If I see deficiencies I will make adjustments to solve the problem and prevent it from happening again. .
In the Puget Sound Lowlands
Heat is the limiting factor
so
a very sandy gravelly soil is important.
Heavy clay is slow to drain and warm up.
Considering where they grow in the wild
I doubt that high fertility is important.
Our soils are leached of several minerals like Sulfur and Boron, so I do use Kelp meal for trace minerals.
I still think DE is best but turface can work too. I favor DE because of a larger pore size roots can enter. And the added benefit of silicon. Studies confirm plants benefit from high levels of silicon. But if turface is easier and cheaper it is a very close substitute. Both are fine products that will benefit your plants greatly.
I repot my citrus trees every 3years, so far Turface held up pretty good. Still add large perlite for lighter weight. My local hydroponic store has a huge amount of fertilizers for me to try out. This store front is rather small but full of high end stuff you don’t see in big box stores. The attached warehouse is huge, mostly expensive stuff. I ask what about citrus? Showed me a 4lb bag of Fox Farm citrus/avocado, it was this past summer, but use it a couple of weeks ago this December. Trees went nuts, flowering,new growth might be a big mistake on my part to it this late. Lots of fruitlets now, sprayed with urea a couple of days ago to prevent fruit drop. Will see what happens.
I’m also trying to learn more about fig fertilizer.
How do they respond to Boron?
I assume they prefer a soil rich in lime.
But is anyone familiar with the Boron recommendations
lbs/acre solubor, or actual Boron/acre?
Soil pH dictates the chemical availability of nutrient ions. Plants with a fixed metabolism thus perform better in soils with pH that matches a ratio of nutrients they prefer.
F. carica metabolism is flexible with regard to pH and (within limits) can modulate their intake of ions to match their current needs. They can produce well in the range 6 to 8.7 provided suitable amounts of N, K, and P are present along with a spectrum of micronutrients. I have listed K second because they utilize more of it relative to P.
Note: decimal points were omitted in the pH axis on the left side of this nutrient availability chart.
