If I had a thousand saucers every single pot I have would sit in one. I’m slowly acquiring them for everything to keep me out of watering every day.
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They should be fine. The sprinklers will go today (well went) and tomorrow because they are in between my 2 zones, and Wednesday this heat dome is supposed to move off us so the rain will be back. My greenhouse plants are all saucered up though, water vanishes in there.
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I did that last year with one pot in a large 2” tall saucer but sometimes had to water twice a day. I’d fill the saucer to the top. It was a Hollier. Tree was the healthiest and most productive of 60 potted trees. The sweetest fig too some said they were too sweet. That surprised me.
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Yeah, I’ve debated putting down a thick plastic liner and propping up the edges with boards of some kind and just keeping all my pots on it. I would be able to use flood irrigation too, which would be a time-saver.
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That could be a good idea, would be mosquito haven tho
Baby pools work great for that, and you can put a few pots in there depending of the size. I drill an overflow hole about 3 inches above the ground just so they don’t drawn on too much water.
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Yeah my thought is I’d want at least one side to be easy to drop so if it did have water in it for more then a day or two I could let the whole thing drain.
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You could put mosquito fish in it. But then you would need to aeriate it. And if you are aeriating it, might as well get the water flowing. And then bam, you now are practicing aquaponics.
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I couldnt speak to root pruning as all mine are in the ground, in a greenhouse, but obove ground pruning is fine.
We prune out new, vigorous growth at least twice before and after the breba in order to keep the trees open to light and air movement.
Large wood removal is done in the winter.
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Re summer pruning, it all depends on the relative sizes of the top growth and roots. Assuming adequate roots, figs respond well to summer pruning of top growth. For some varieties that set too many shoots (e.g., Smith, VdB, LSU Purple), pruning these shoots is essential to ensuring growth of strong fruiting shoots. Assuming adequate roots (e.g., a good sized pot and a modest tree), then removing some roots that pop through the bottom of the post its not a big deal.
What you want to avoid is extensive growth of roots outside the pot, which will encourage vigorous growth of the top BUT (!!!) will likely leave the pot root-bound. At minimum, the top will end up too big for the root bal left in the pot, setting up problems next season.
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that stone wall is protecting it!
LOL – What about the 15 other fig trees planted along the same stone wall? Almost all of those died to the ground last year. Every one of them (including the Lattarula) died to the ground the prior year. I’m sorry, the evidence suggests that the wall didn’t do crap.
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it might be that this one got lucky with wind, or the roots got under the stones! i have a rosemary up by a big tree, all other ones around it died over winter but that single one and a lavender next to it are real happy. just luck maybe.
That’s what I figure. I’ve given it zero care since deer decided (2020) that fig foliage is edible. It’s tall enough now to escape severe deer pressure. We’ll see whether it survives a normal Z7A winter.
FWIW, there’s also a Paradisao Gene with good height and some main crop figs. But i’ver seen PG die at 0 F.
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Roberts Golden Rainbow from cutting earlier this year
my most vigorous fig tree. With Cosme Manyo 1st year directly behind it as well.
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male flower from Enderud
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