There is a jell on a Elberta Peach branch in several places. Do you know what it is. I was looking into the sun when I took the picture. I apologize for the picture quality.
. Any assistance is appreciated. Thanks.
Dave
This could be a symptom of bacterial or fungal disease. Do you see other symptoms?
Which state are you in?
I am in Virginia and the tree has been growing well. It is probably 8 ft. I did notice this in several areas. The bark is indented on a couple of places on the branch.
You can try contacting your state university extension service to get a professional diagnosis done. Some times photographs can work, otherwise they may ask that you mail them a sample. I have used University of Delaware and Penn State extension diagnostic services before, and they were very helpful. Since your are on the east cost, I would take that seriously as there are a ton of diseases here (because of humidity and rain), some of them can kill a tree if not treated.
Most peach trees ooze sap as a result of some injury (insect, disease, ect.). It’s called gummosis. If the sap is clear, it’s generally no big deal. A lot of my peach trees squirt clear sap after heavy rains. The roots pick up more water than the tree can handle, and it comes out any little nick in the bark.
If it’s amber sap, as your picture seems to indicate, that is typically more problematic. In most cases it’s either bacterial or fungal canker. If it’s around the base of the tree, it’s generally borers.
Canker isn’t a big deal unless the trees lack vigor, or you live in a cold climate. If the bark is indented where the sap is oozing, it’s either winter kill or canker. At this time of year, the tree should have mostly healed any winter kill at this point, so it’s probably canker. Probably Valsa/perennial canker.
Just keep the tree growing well, and if you haven’t been spraying the tree with any fungicide, you might start doing so next season. Fungicides won’t cure canker, but they do help minimize the spread, imo.
I pretty much agree with the following article, except the part about the watering. Peach trees are very easy to over-water in heavy soils. In fact, overwatering can reduce vigor and cause more damage from canker. I would only recommend watering peaches when the ground is extremely dry.
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Thanks for the article. This is the first year I have noticed this. I have 4 Elberta Peach trees and I have only noticed this on one of the trees. I was planning to spray the trees in several weeks. This would be the first year I will be spraying the trees. What should I use. Thanks again for your help
Thanks.
That’s a pretty big question, which depends on your location and pest pressure. I would say you probably need only one spray over the dormant season. That is, a spray to control peach leaf curl (google it to see what it’s about). A copper spray (like LiqiCop or Kocide 3000 will work, as well as any product containing chlorothalonil -i.e. Daconil, Fungonil, ect.).
Beyond that, I would say you might hit the trees w/ a general fungicide next season. This will protect the fruit from various fungal pathogens (scab and brown rot mainly, but will also provide some impedance to the spread of canker). I use a various battery of fungicides throughout the season, but I’m a commercial grower most likely with more fungal pressure and a higher standard of fruit quality required. Some of the fungicides I use are Captan, Topsin, Indar, Bumper (propiconazole), Pristine. You would not need to spray at a commercial level.
For a more thorough discussion of what you might need as a backyard orchardist for pests in the East, you might look at a couple of topics in the Guides section of this forum.
There are plenty more threads you can search on this forum regarding pest protection (including fungal pests) but those two thread should get you started. There are lots of experienced folks here, which should be able to answer any questions you have.
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Thanks I appreciate your help.
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Hi Dave,
I am located in Central Virginia - Piedmont region. I have a 3 year old Elberta that had similar sap oozing from multiple spots midway up the main trunk the second year planted. Two dormant sprays (one in fall one in late February) of Home Depot bought Copper Fungicide (forgot brand) got rid of the canker. This year as Olpea recommended I am spraying my peach trees with Kocide 3000 (copper). Spray the Copper while dormant or you may harm the tree. I have not been real successful growing peaches yet due to pests (moths and plum curcilo) and critters (squirrels) but hopefully next year I will get a crop. I have not used all of the fungicides that Olpea recommended but I can add immunox (I forget the technical name) works well in Central Virginia and is widely available at Home Depot. For me it was one of the few fungicides that really works that is marketed to the home grower and is affordable. Immunox works on peaches and does wonders for apples - I have big problems with Cedar Apple Rust. Some of the others on here can tell you the advantages of Immunox vs captan, I am not that well versed. Best of luck.
Thanks. I do have a liquid Copper Fungicide from Bonide I will use it this weekend. Do you use a horticultural spray oil? I will pick up immunox. I am reviewing Scotts spraying schedule and picked up Lime\Sulfur and Surround. For several years I did get peaches. The more I am learning it may have been pure luck. This forum has been great in providing information. Last year peaches were inflected. I believe it was plum currllio. I added a number of fruit trees this year so I need to focus on spraying.Thanks again for your help.
I used Horticulture Oil combined with Kocide (Copper) and NuFilm 17 Sticker as a dormant spray combination for the first time about two days ago. I sprayed my father’s peaches, plums, cherries and apples, still have to spray my fruit trees. My trees had a decent crop until plum curculio hit and some type of moth. That dropped down to about 30 peaches, most which help feed the squirrels. .