I would virtually guarantee that those who like Tilamook would also like Moniz.
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The nursery says the seedlings come fairly true, which was enough to convince me to try them. Would an unbiased panel of fruit growers agree?
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You should give Amber Autumn Olive a try, it does not have as much tannin in it than the red autumn olives/goumi
M
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I have seen mention of grafting goumi on autumn olive. Is this a roostock scenario or can a goumi/AO frakenbush be made?
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I’ve grafted a goumi on an autumn olive branch, while most of the bush remains autumn olive. The graft seems to be doing well, and this past summer (it’s second leaf) it produced berries (all picked by birds or squirrels as there were too few to bother with protection). But I must say that I’ve been having low success overall with grafting goumis, whether on other goumis or on autumn olives. I’ve grafted persimmons, apples, apricots, and plums with virtually 100% success, but with goumis and autumn olives, I am roughly at 25%. And it does not matter whether it’s goumi on autumn olive or goumi on goumi (or autumn olive on autumn olive for that matter), the success rate for me is similar. E.g., last season, I grafted four sticks of Tillamook (two on Red Gem and two on Sweet Scarlet), and only one took. I must be doing something wrong, so if anyone has better luck with them, I’d appreciate any tips on the timing and method of grafting!
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I’ve also been experimenting with grafting goumi to autumn olive over the past several years. Timing does seem to be very important, from what I can tell. Autumn olives start to leaf out here in spring faster than any other plant. When I graft them in early-mid April I tend to have pretty good success, but any later and my take rate drops off drastically. Even mid April was a bit too late last year since we had such an early spring. I also noticed that on warm/sunny days when they are already starting to leaf out, there can be a lot of sap flow that will flood the grafts and ruin any chance of success, even with cuts to the lower trunk to disturb the flow. I might try grafting some over the next week or 2 to see how well they do as they are just pushing buds.
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Thanks for the tip! I did graft later, so this might be the reason. If I get enough Tillamook growth this year from my last year’s graft to get some scionwood, I will follow your advice and graft it earlier. Cheers!
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My goumies have gone past bud swell to bud break in just the past few days. Wont be long now until they are covered in those yellow blossoms that smell wonderful.
TNHunter
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Do you also have Crandall currant? Does your goumi and crandall bloom at different times?
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@Josh6b … I do have crandell clove currants… just started them last spring. They did bloom and ripen fruit first year. Best I remember they started blooming later than goumi.
JPlums bloom first here… next I think it is goumi, lapins cherry, some early strawberries, my early blueberries…
I will check my CCCs next time I am out in the orchard and see how far along they are.
TNHunter
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It is a rainy day here…
My red gem and sweet scarlet… planted spring 2020.
I have 2 grafts of carmine on them.
Yesterday buds were breaking… today a few blossoms can be seen.
TNHunter
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I have an assortment of nitrogen fixers planted in my lower and upper orchard. I like a few named cultivars of seaberry best, but seaberry doesn’t handle wet ground long, so I’ve lost more than half of what I’ve planted. And one on a hill got accidentally burned up when my heavy old gas mower got too close and I couldn’t back up because it was on a hill, lol… I finally had the brains to turn the mower off and get some help when I couldn’t pull it away, either. But the seaberry was already burned up.
Autumn olives and goumi are way more hardy. Every single one has lived, whether planted in my soggy lower orchard and my dry hill orchard. Autumn olive, at least the ones I have, produce smaller fruit, and one of them has larger seeds (tag is lost). The goumi are a little more fun to eat. I just nibble while I’m gardening. Don’t know that they are enough for me to bother baking with. But they are also very pretty on top of a salad.
Goumi tends to be more expensive, maybe because it’s a fruit that people tend to eat, too.
I wouldn’t compare it to Nanking cherries except maybe the size of bush. Nankings aren’t nitrogen fixers.
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My goumi has buds but I’m not sure what stage it is at. Would you wait to graft until you could see leaves forming? I would be grafting goumi to goumi and just wonder if I should be grafting now or waiting a couple weeks.
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That’s what I’ve done in the past. I’m not sure what stage is optimal yet or how early would be too early, I just know that I’ve had poor success by waiting too long. Looking at TNHunter’s photos 2 posts above yours, that looks like it would be a pretty safe stage of growth to graft. I think when the buds start to open and push little green leaves and you have several warm days coming up in the weather forecast, then that should be a good time to graft. Mine are at the same stage that yours are right now. I might try grafting some soon, to see how that works.
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@Cgardener … I added 3 grafts of carmine to my RG and SS a few years back.
I waited until they had small leaves and I had a warm week ahead to graft.
My goumi grafts showed progress quickly… buds pushing thru parafilm, leaves.
2 of the 3 actually produced blossoms and fruit that spring.
TNHunter
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One of mine is in full bloom basically and the other a little behind I’ll check tomorrow to see which is which, I forget haha
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Do the blooms ever get frosted out, or are they pretty cold hardy?
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@OldKYHomestead … goumi must be pretty frost hardy.
The last two springs… my jplums set fruit early/mid March… then mid/late March we got like 25F… and all those tiny plums shriveled and fell off.
Goumi were not affected… had loads of fruit.
TNHunter
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