Hi Clark and others friends.
I dare to comment on this post, and give my advice based on my experience -
Pyrus calleryana is a good rootstock for pear, and there are some sub-species that give “some” resistance to fire blight.
The drawback for me of this rootstock is that it does not adapt well to very calcareous soils, so it needs neutral soils or soils with a low pH.
In Europe, the most commercialized subspecies as rootstock is the Pyrus Calleryana Chanticleer.
As I see that you have them in " rainfed " land ( without irrigation ) , you should try this rootstock , since it is wonderful for that type of conditions :
- Pyrus Communis ( European Wild Pear )
It is extremely resistant to drought, very compatible with all kinds of pears (both European and Asian types), and without a doubt it is the best rootstock for calcareous soils with a high pH.
I use the Whip and Tongue grafting system for small caliber rootstocks , but for rootstocks like the one you show , the double full cleft system ( double Cleft Graft ) , even though your technique is " EXCELLENT " , I find it too aggressive , and I prefer the graft-to-crown system.
There is a French video, which I use a lot, since it is very explicit with this technique, and it is not necessary to know the language, just watch the video.
I show you :
There are two things I have to say about this video:
-This Mr. Frances performs the grafting at a height that is too high, so that he will have to pick the apples with a ladder, I prefer to graft with this system, at a height of 50 centimeters (1.6 feet) above ground level, In this way the tree will not be too tall, and all the work will be very comfortable without the need for a ladder (pruning, harvesting, treatments, etc…)
-Secondly he uses a hot grafting putty, with which you will not be familiar, it is a very good product that is widely used in France, but it is very expensive.
Its presentation is in plates like stone, and it carries fungicides.
Is this type of product:
For these grafting tasks , I make my own " very good and cheap " product .
- A one-kilo can of waterproofing latex paint
- Three tablespoons of copper oxychloride
Very well mixed both products , and we already have a kilo of the best grafting putty in the world and the most economical.
I am going to post some pictures of a very good variety of pear due to its early ripening.
This variety of pear is called " De la Reina " , but everyone knows it as " Pera de San Juan " , since its ripening date coincides with the San Juan festivity in spain which is June 23 .
It’s this little pear but very very sweet
- San Juan pear
The photos :
The advantage of grafting whit the crown system is that, as you can see, I have been successful in grafting the 4 cuttings, which will make up the first floor of the tree’s branches, and since the branches already issued have the distance adequate, I will carry out a green pruning (pruning in vegetative state) of the 4 branches.
This first green pruning is done very short ( 15-20 centimeters ) , to obtain new shoots and form the second floor of the tree .
The pear tree will respond to green pruning very vigorously, and will emit new sprouts from all 4 primary branches.
In this way , in a very short space of time ( only one year ) , the tree will have its half - formed structure .
I hope you like these little tips and photos.
Best regards
Jose
