@Chills just curious, have you watched any videos by dr caldwell esselstyn or joel fuhrman? I was trying to get my parents to try it “by example” coz they keep complaining about the side effects of their bp meds. Very tough for them to follow but i ended up lowering MY bp from the usual 120/80 to 100/68 …
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@DennisD it probably depends on what you use but for sure I would wrap atleast the rubber band portion to keep it from deteriorating too soon. Probably for 3 to 6 months to be sure, depending on how quick the growth is.
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Is it too late in the year to do a bark graft? I have dormant apple scion and would like to cut a limb from an old crab apple and graft to it. The trunk of the tree is about 18 inches high and about 18 inches wide before the branches scaffold. The limb I want to cut and add grafts to is about 8 inches wide.
The reason that notching above a graft helps is that it stops the hormone signal that the lead growing tip produces to keep lower positioned buds from competing. Another way to do it if a branch is too small to notch is to pinch back the leader hard, which temporarily shuts down the hormone production. Doesn’t always work, but it can make a difference.
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I like that idea. thanks for tipping me off.
@DennisD 55 F at night and midst 70’s for 7-10 days to see forecasted. There no matter the rainfall or sunshine is time for grafting, best regards.
@tubig mid-July is the time to un-wrap grafts whether zone 5 IL or OR zone 8a (Portland). It’s just how it works & excellent-advice!
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A Rubinette apple that I grafted 10 weeks ago just sprouted a leaf today.
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I got my grafting done today, all apples. Most are varieties I tried in the past unsuccessfully. I made a few changes per suggestions here, so we will wait and see what comes of it. That is about all I have room for on my Frankentrees, so we will just wait to see what these alluring varieties taste like. Supposed to be in 70s the next few days, then 80s.
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I have successfully removed and regrafted several scions which showed no sign of life on their original graft. After cutting they were green inside and I placed them in a new location. After a couple weeks I’m seeing growth. Wasnt sure if that was possible so I might try a few more regrafts on trees where I had no growth.
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Your reciprocal approach might work, but if the scions are not something you have ready access to (i.e., if you’d have to buy again to try again), I would graft a backup onto some pear species/variety. I once tried budding the Michurin mountain ash hybrids (Grannatnaya and Likyorynaya, Sorbus aucuparia X Aronia for one X hawthorn for the other; don’t remember which is which) to pear. The grafts “took,” grew less than an inch, and didn’t come back the next year. I think there is (delayed) incompatibility of Sorbus on pear, though that doesn’t necessarily guarantee than pear on Sorbus will fail.
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i have completely grafted over my American mountain ash with 8 types of pear over 3 yrs and so far no fails. only issue im having is the pear scions are more vigorous than the mtn. ash. i had to cut back the growth on some of them because it gets too top heavy and wants to turn down. once it branches out below the cut, it should be more balanced.
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i could probably graft some onto my aronia bush temporarily.
Regina:
Glad i read your text.
I’m in the process of regrafting as well.
An apple scion showed weak growth so i regrafted the top part of scion to another part of the tree. The bottom part of scion has weak growth.
When I cut the scion, the cambium looked fresh at the cut point.
The remaining bottom scion has one sprouted bud but the sprouted leaves look very weak and haven’t shown any progress in a week. See pic.
So I’m thinking maybe the remaining one bud that looks weak will jump start being it’s the only Bud left on the Scion.
Is this pretty much what you did?
I grafted 20 +apples on 4/9/21. Most showed signs of takes after 2-4 weeks. Hawaii took 7 weeks to push buds.
Arlie’s Red has not even pushed buds yet but I think the scionwood was not very fresh.
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Hawaii was slow for me as well.
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I converted my Harrison apples on Bud 118 to Bud 118/bud9 interstem. Due to a mailing mishap, my Bud9 sticks didn’t show up until after the apples leafed out, so I had to use the portion of the twigs that were still dormant. It took a while for them to get going, but one definitely took. The other one I unwrapped to look at, and it turns out I managed to squeeze the whip and tongue apart when I wrapped it. 
Fortunately, the interstem seems to have taken, as well as the other Harrison. My plan was to only keep one tree as Harrison anyway, so I guess I’ll let it grow as is for now and find another variety for next spring.
Jay:
The bud9 sticks you mention, are they scions?
If so, then you grafted that part of the scion that still had buds but not leafed?
I’m grafting both the top part of scion with small leave starting, then separately the dormant part.
A work in progress.
Maybe the small leafs of small leaf scion if wrapped with parafilm will survive and continue to grow
Thanks @JCW and @jcguarneri for your help earlier this spring. First dormant persimmon grafting experiment was a success. 5/6 took. Thank you @RUenvsci for the scionwood!
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I thought I was done with dormant grafting a while back. I was even planning next year’s scions, when @Barkslip sent me a bunch of American and Hybrid persimmon scions to play with. Here I am experimenting with my very first double graft of Barbra’s Blush aka WS8-10 on my Fuyu (Jiro) through Chuchupaka interstem. I also grafted one directly on Fuyu to see what happens
Reading about Chuchupaka only now. I wish I grafted it alone and only used Nikita’s Gift as interstem as I have multiple grafts of that already. May be that one exposed bud of the interstem will leaf out or there is always next season 
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Very healthy looking!
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