Thanks Annie! Grafting the wrong fruit to the wrong tree! I’d say “that is funny!” . . . but it’s really not. Although I guess it’s not that hard to make that mistake!
Another question . . .
Is it better to graft more toward the interior of the tree - or at the end of a branch with some length. I’m not sure I’m asking this clearly . . .? But, it’s not good to graft to the end or tip of a long branch, right? It wouldn’t be very strong?
Graft where it can be in the sun when leaf out so it can continue grow strongly. This is my preference. Other might want chimes in
When you say survive what do you mean exactly…did it ever callous over? Did it just leaf out and sit there? Either way the fact it did anything at all is incredible to me.
Of course, it calloused and leafed out. Twice!
I would have never guessed an apricot would do that on a pear. Fascinating!
I have no experience with bench graft peaches, only field grafting.
I think @jcguarneri did some bench grafts of stone fruit last year. He may be able to give you some tips.
I grafted apples on pears and pears on apples without inter stem of Winter Banana. It grew well and set fruit. The unions were swollen and ugly. After 3 years, I removed them.
I tried a mulberry on pear last year…nope.
I had an extra Aravaipa avocado scion last month and decided to try grafting it on my Umbellularia californica tree, even though the only reference I’ve found said they aren’t graft compatible. That reference was a study done in CA in the 1960s using Umbellularia seedlings and commercial avocado cultivars (var. guatemalensis mostly), so I figure why not try a drymifolia avocado on a mature Umbellularia tree instead?
So far it looks alive and well, but no buds swelling yet.
My question was a bit more specific than asking about how sharp a knife has to be . . .
It was ‘how to choose a branch for your graft’ . . . not how to shave my arm. But, then I’m not usually ‘one to split hairs’! 
@PomGranny
For grafts to be successful, it’s best to choose a branch in a dominant position, one that wants to grow.
Heading back a leader or main vigorous scaffolds and grafting to them can work.
Sometimes best to head them all back and graft to all of them at once . Only letting grafts grow.
Trees usually don’t want to grow from grafts.
You kind of have to make them want to grow there, or else !
Show us a pic of your tree , someone will be able to help answer better with a pic.
“http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/files/172574.pdf”
The above document is very helpful. It is a PDF and will be downloaded to your computer automatically.
@IL847
It would be a bigger surprise if the apricot actually fruited on the pear tree.
There are many variables here but one of them is specific fruit species. For peaches and nectarines, it’s best to graft at the apical branches as I read that the lower grafts won’t take (unless you are top working aka chopping the whole trunk and grafting, of course). For plums and apples and pears, most places should succeed but as you’d imagine the grafts at the very bottom won’t be vigorous. For citrus, its pretty much a lottery for me so far 
It will be a miracle:crazy_face:
Thanks! I posted a pic of my Goldrush on the ‘No central leader’ thread. It’s mega marked up. I think I need to shape it up before choosing any further grafting positions. Maybe you can chime in on that advice?
Or - here is an unmarked version.
What should I prune off completely ?
And what should I head back and graft to?
I definitely want to leave the majority of it Goldrush. And if it’s not too late - I’d like to train it to Central Leader.
Thanks for your help.
Unrelated to the above picture, is it too early to graft if freezes are still expected but sap is likely to start running (60F days, 50F nights)?
I have … with results in the 80-90% success, Chonas.
Haven’t started this year…but I may by first of the month.
Spring moves north at 10 miles per day and you’re in KY so at least 16 days behind me. I’m right on schedule woo hoo. Pomegranate myrtles here I come.
I am going to graft some varieties onto the third years’ Li jujube(never fruited). Might I know when is the best time to do grafting? I was told that do grafting in July for jujube( from Cilf England). I am kind of worry about the timing. Since I live in the Boston suburb MA (6a). Could I graft in April before the tree leafing out? Thanks in advance
