I’m sure it’s all relative to what you compare it to. If you are comparing to figs, then apples definitely are not easy to root, while if you’re comparing to persimmons or pawpaws, which rarely even form roots above a buried graft, they are easy. Just depends on where you draw the line I guess.
And @DennisD , that info about optimum temperatures and when to graft relative to them is super helpful, thanks for sharing!
This is my first try at grafting apples. I got M111 rootstock from FEDCO and did the grafting in late March. I planted them in my nursery early May. Most of the scions pushed out leaves, and then a fair number wilted and dried up. So not a high success rate. I still have scions and the rootstock seems to be doing well - can I cut off the failed scions and regraft the rootstock with new scions? It is still pretty early in the season here in central NYS.
@DennisD How long after grafting can you assume a graft is “safe” from extreme temperature swings?
I grafted paw paws one week ago on a nice 70 degree day, when the forecast said it was meant to stay in the 70s for the next week. But some random heat wave came through and it was in the 90s yesterday and today. After today, the forecast is back down to the 70s for the next week.
Are my paw paws safe, or did the heat wave fry them?
What about my pear grafts that I grafted about 6 weeks ago? If they’ve been leafing out slowly but steadily for the last 6 weeks (about an inch of growth) are they likely safe, or fried?
I think that you may have done your grafting too early in the season for your location. What were the grafted rootstocks doing for the month of April? For best success, you want to be able to plant immediately after grafting so that the rootstock can wake up from dormancy and begin pushing nutrition up to the scion before the latter wakes up and depletes its own stores.
An alternative approach that works OK for backyard-scale operations is to plant the rootstock before grafting, and monitor it for signs of life. When you see it starting to bud out, you know that it’s no longer dormant, and you can pull your scions out of the fridge and graft them in the field.
Since you still have scions, re-grafting now would essentially be doing the above. I’d try it. If any of your grafts (new or old) subsequently fail, you can leave the rootstock in the ground and let it grow until next season, then try again.
@dpps i think your pawpaws will be fine. Though I’ve always heard 80s is the time to graft versus 70s
Thanks! I’ve never grafted paw paws before, so I based my timing off of some advice from this forum and from the Peterson’s paw paw grafting video. Essentially, leaves 1" to 3" long, temperature in the 70s. I’m happy you have success in the 80s, though, cause it gives me more hope for my grafts not being fried!
Hi Dana
Depending on scion energy, condition, and quality of graft you need about 3 weeks of optimal temps for the graft union to heal enough to allow nutrients to flow between scion and rootstock. So for that period you need in your case of heat wave to place aluminum foil shiny side out around your grafts. After three weeks check to see if scion is growing, if so and heat wave persists then allow only indirect morning light keeping it covered until you think you are making progress. That’s what I would do! I just finished my peach grafts today maybe a day or so ahead of optimal, so I expect a heat wave soon and am prepared to cover them. Take care and good luck!
Dennis
Will do, thanks!
Thank you for your answer. I had also gotten rootstock from Cummings. I followed their instructions to hold the new grafts in a moist potting mix in my cold basement for 4-6 weeks. Then plant them out in the spring when the snow was gone. We had a stretch of dry, hot, days that probably did not do the new leaves any good. I will do the re-grafts now, and see what happens. Or next year if they are not successful.
We had two hot days around 90 sandwiched in a perfect period for persimmon grafting. I stuck a little cone-shaped shade of silver-backed duct tape just above each new graft, open at the bottom to let rain keep them hydrated. Seems like a suitable substitute for aluminum foil, and does not allow metal-to-graft heat transfer from intense sun.
So the apple re-grafts succeeded! A few of my grafted pears don’t look like they will make it and I will hold over their rootstock to try again next year.
Now to see which ones make it through the winter.
Congratulations!
I had fair success with the the apple & pear trees I grafted in spring 2022. Now to see if they survive the winter in Central New York. When should I move them to their permanent locations - spring 2023 or wait and move in spring 2024. Commercial nurseries seem to go by size not by age. Is that a better way to decide. Thanks.
After the first season they should put on something like 12-24" of growth and have a good handful of roots, that’s a good size to transplant.
I planted out my 1 year old grafts to their permanent location and most all have done well in this summer of endless rain (Central NY). A few of the grafts (apple, pear) that were shaky looking did not make it, but the root stock is growing 3-4 leafy regrowths on each. I am not sure where to go from here. I think I should let them grow for a few years and then try top-grafting, and bury the excess shoots that I cut off and see if they will take and grow into new rootstock. They are M111 from FEDCO.
I have M111 and I find it very good in severe drought and heat. It is trouble free in my clay soil.