Being in South Georgia I can’t grow bunch grapes at all on account of disease issues. But even my muscadines get issues with black rot every year. I recommend winter spraying with a Bordeaux mix (a mixture of lime and copper sulfate) and a couple to three spring sprayings with a with a Zink based fungicide once at bud break. (I don’t remember the name.) Then two weeks later and then right before blooming. The pesticide I use says don’t use it within 30 days of ripening and that in California it’s illegal to use it after fruit set. I tend to take California’s more cautious advice to heart on these things. God bless.
Babbabgone, I see that you are in Zone 6 . Are you in a southern state? If your climate is humid, it may be too warm for vinifera grapes. You may have to settle for the various fox grapes and possibly muscadines, although Zone 6 is probably a bit cool for a lot of muscadine varieties. God bless.
We’re in zone 6b.
we have canadice, reliance, interlaken (I think), lakemont, seedless concord, and a marquis (over time I had to keep replacing some of the stuff we grow and actually lost track)
Just to let you know, I’ve sprayed my Reliance grapes yesterday with Immunox and also plucked off any infected, rotted and under-developed grapes. They seemed to look better now, assuming the Immunox can stop this progressing black rot…
Tom,
In my experience keep spraying immunox or captan as directed but it’s likely to late to save this years crop. The black rot my grapes had pre-bloom and post bloom sprays were critical. See these links http://articles.extension.org/pages/31134/black-rot-of-grapes and http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/managing_black_rot_on_grapes. Next year if you get rid of the grape mummies, lesions on canes, old leaves and spray around bloom times you will get an excellent crop. If you just got the infection this year spraying will save the grapes but if it was around last year spraying will not save the grapes. Black rot is not specific to grapes it also effects apples, pears etc as well.
Good to know. There were some left-over so I sprayed the espalier apples next to it too! After all these works, I still have to deal with JB, squirrels, birds, etc.
When I spray MFF on the peaches, I’ve been hitting the grapes as well. A single spray made a huge difference last year with Niagra (98% rot without, 2% rot with). The year before, when Niagra almost all rotted, Jupiter was clean, so there are some with resistance. Faith, right next to Jupiter on the trellis, seems to get some.
But, neither is even close to Neptune. Neptune did get some MFF this year, but it was at the end of the tank and I added a bit of water to finish, so it was diluted. Either way, it is worse than Niagra with no spray.
I’ll give them another year- and next time I’ll make sure they get a full spray of fungicide. While one was enough last year, I noticed a few spots coming on Niagra, about a month after the first spray (6/21), so I did a 2nd.
I’m especially interested in how Joy and Gratitude will do, as this is the first year they are bearing for me.
Since the black rot disease destroys not just fruit but but trees as well I wanted to post more pictures. I have a neighbor who for years has an orchard full of black rot. He thought the apple tree trunk had sunburn. Unfortunately most home orchardist don’t know its cycles from lesions to leaf and fruit infection. I lose tons of fruit every year from the blackrot in my neighbors orchard. The disease is as dangerous as fire blight but much less known.
Black rot in apples looks like this http://tse1.mm.bing.net/th?&id=OIP.M13f9eff85298a1b995f0bdde67e8d5afo0&w=300&h=203&c=0&pid=1.9&rs=0&p=0&r=0
Quick question about black rot in grapes: will Indar take care of it? If so, what’s the timing? This thread talks about spraying immunox at bloom time. Will it be same timing to treat black rot no matter what the treatment is?
