How many watts? The manufacturer should tell you what it’s designed to do.
It’s a full spectrum light that is 300 watts:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PH1MQV8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I was just looking at that one. It has good reviews. It depends on what you call a plant, but it will cover about 3 foot square. So that’s maybe 9 plants in gallon pots, or three or four decent sized plants.
Thanks for info. The amount and brightness this thing puts out is unbelievable!! I just ordered a special pair of sunglasses designed to be used with LEDs.
The best part is that it’s tuned color wise. The bad part is that makes it super hard for humans to identify diseases and nutrient needs, so keep white spotlight handy.
Also, do you have a tent? It’s a shame to have such a powerful light doubling as a hall light…
Some of the muscadines have started to ripen. I had one a week or two ago and then a few more today. Not super high brix, but not bad. One low one at 12, while the others are in the 14-15 range.
Even more interesting is that it looks like another bunch is starting to form. Does that mean that they keep flowering and bearing forever in the right climate (tropical)?
I don’t think they are Fry Seedless, as several have had seeds. Based on what else I had when I started the new plants, it is either Supreme (possible, but not likely) or Black Beauty (more likely).
Ripest bunch:
New bunch, with 2nd bunch in background:
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Bob,
Do you have any of them growing in-ground?
Tony
Yes, I’ve got all my muscadines in ground. When I protected them one year, I covered them with woodchips or straw and forgot to remove it for a while. So I accidentally rooted a few of them (mostly Fry Seedless, I thought) I just rooted a few from them, so that’s how they ended up in pots as well. I’ve harvested Black Beauty, Supreme, and Late Fry from the in-ground vines. Just no Fry Seedless.
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What is outdoor hardening? I always plant tomatoes from small plants that I buy from a local nursery.
We’re talking about tomato plants that we grow from seeds. As they start developing, they benefit from spending some time outside under the sun (if weather permits). In this way they gradually acclimate to the outside conditions.
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Ordered 18 new led strips today. Should be a nice upgrade for my shelf area and gonna use a few to upgrade my parents kitchen from florescent. Retrofit their existing fixture.
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/bxeb-l0560z-35e2000-c-b3/bridgelux?utm_source=octopart&utm_medium=aggregator&utm_campaign=octopart_2018&utm_content=inv_listing&utm_keyword=BXEB-L0560Z-35E2000-C-B3
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Like to see your end results, curious what they look like. I am sure interested!!
One of the forum members recently gifted me some muscadine cuttings. I am trying to root them in this plastic basin.
I covered them up with a little more soil media and placed the basin inside a welded-wire cage to keep out the squirrels.
I once successfully rooted a Swenson Red grape cutting in this manner.
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I’ve had best luck rooting grapes with a little bottom heat and some rooting hormone.
I’ve had success getting “normal” grapes to root from dormant cuttings (even just stuck in the ground in fall), but not muscadines. I remember reading the same thing from at least one other person in the forums, so getting them rooted could be tough. You may want to hold a few back and graft them instead, though if normal grapes are any indicator, that isn’t easy either.
Unfortunately, I have nowhere to graft them to. The only other muscadine I have is the Fry Seedless Red you gifted me. How the hell did you get those starts anyway? Did you layer them while still connected to the vine?
The Fry Seedless Reds you gave me have persisted, but they are still too small to graft on to.
Can muscs be grafted onto grapes (such as Concord?)?
Yup. I very cleverly forgot to remove the mulch I put on them for the winter 
And thus stumbled onto a bunch of rooted plants. After I saw how easy it was, I actually did that on purpose with one or two.
I’ve never tried, but it is worth a shot. I have very low take rates with grape grafting, so I’m probably not the best person to ask. The one thing that has worked for me is green grafting during the summer (both bark and cleft).
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Word is that grapes AND muscs are liable to drip badly from an ill-timed pruning. Usually they can muscle through it, but on occassion can bleed out to the point of death. I try to prune my grapes in late winter before the sap gets running too quickly. I have not adequately explored the idea of grafting these vitis- a prospect that is intimidating and of questionable value to me. I’d much rather have these plants on their own roots if possible.
Your Fry Seedless Red have impressed me with their ability to withstand both our sites’ z6b winters.
I have had terrible luck with rooting hormone- probably my fault.
Bottom heat sounds nice. I am not so well equiped.