Hi ,Steve,
I just got the LS for pet from Amazon yesterday. Nowadays the shipping is slow.
I checked the leaf development and it was not affected much. Overall the tree is still in good health. So I will just test LS on a few branches to see if it will make any big differences.
If you decide to wait until the fall to deal with it, I think that’s totally fine. And yes, I will remove all leaves and apply LS as experts suggested here.
Thanks for chiming in so quickly. Yes, I’ll take your advice (and everyone else’s) and see how things look in the next week or so.
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Not every tree and even on one tree, not every branch get them. Mites in my yard seems to prefer Asian pears to Euro.
I’ve learned from @scottfsmith to time my spray at a stage when pear bud scales are separating. I don’t know how well spraying L-S when trees have fully leafed out will work.
You don’t need to remove the leaves, the l-s should kill the mites. The red spots will turn black. That is how I discovered how well sulphur worked on mites, I was spraying it for something else but saw how well it worked. In the growing season it needs a couple sprays, maybe 2 weeks apart.
Thanks, Scott!
I should have been more accurate. In Nov when all leaves have fallen, I plan to remove them from the ground as suggested.
It is good to know that LS can kill the mites on the leaves. I will try it out in a couple of days and report back.
Hey everyone! Would anyone be able to help me ID this Asian pear leaf disease as well? It’s a multi grafted Asian pear tree on a calleryana rootstock. I’m not sure what it is but it’s starting to spread 
could anyone help me please? Thank you!
Hi, Shitaki,
I don’t know what the issue is with your pear leaves. My best guess is either bacterial infection, or just sun burns? This does not look like fungal diseases.
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Thank you! If it is a bacterial infection, should neem oil mixture help? I think it might be Fabraea or pear scab?
It’s spreading more I wonder if I should just cut off all the leaves? Or just cut off the branches?
Just wanted to report back.
I did spray the LS for pet onto my pear tree on 4/6. I sprayed the right branches, and left the center branches untouched, for comparison purpose. I checked the leaves again today, and found they were very healthy on both branches. I am not sure if it made any difference to spray LS. The leaves just look like they were never hit by the blister mites. I am really baffled.
On 4/4, I did spray some neem oil on the entire tree, maybe it helped?
At this moment, I think blister mites are just cosmetic issue.
Hi, Steve,
How is your tree doing?
The condition seems to have stabilized. The leaves don’t look perfect but don’t look too bad. The tree is covered with fruit and I will need to thin them before long. Time will tell if the fruit are affected significantly. How about your tree?
My tree seems doing very well. The leaves are almost perfect. I can hardly see any problems if I don’t know the history.
This is incredibly helpful. I just striped the infected leaves from a summercrisp and red clapp’s pear in our 30 fruit tree plot today before a rain - before I could do research and worry of it being a fungus. The trees are next to each other. The land is certified organic so looking for OMRI certified products. I feel obligated to spray something now like the sulfur recommended instead of waiting for the dormant season spraying. Any specific product recommendations?
If you are sure you have the same blister mite problem, I wouldn’t worry too much. I think the leaves on your trees just came out? That’s when I noticed the problem. If I were you, I would still keep all the leaves. They will grow fine. But in the fall, remove all the fallen leaves to prevent this issue next year. Also spray Lime Sulfur at that time. Of course if you decide to do something now, I would just spray LS or any OMRI listed sulfur product as an insurance. In my previous post, I used the LS for pet, so I don’t know if it’s a good idea for your organic garden. 
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