Your tree should be OK, usually when the summer heat kicks in it fries the shot-hole. You will need to do dormant copper this fall and next spring, this fall spray just as the leaves are falling and in the spring spray just before any leaves come out.
You may have other problems besides the shot-hole but it can generally make the tree unhappy so it could just be that.
Cool info thanks
There looks to be a calcium mobility issue in the leaves. The crinkling around the mid-rib. It can be caused by excess water (root damage), low temperature, disease, deficiency, or overfertilization with more mobile nutrients(N-P-K & magnesium).
A foliar spray with calcium chloride cake could help without adding more nitrogen to the already very dark green leaves.
I would also point out that high nitrogen can increase vulnerability to some diseases.
I can see obvious signs of nitrogen overfertilization in the new growth. The leaves on the new growth are way too large and pale/crinkley. You can see that the older growth is a bit dark. The hooking of the leaf tips as well.
So should I spray with calcium then due to over nitrogen, also when should I spray the calcium and what kind should I use? Can it burn the tree or leaves? Thanks so much yall
Curious how much nitrogen you put on it…
While others are helping you with the leave issue, I’d like to point out that chlorothalonil should not be sprayed after shuck split. From the pics, it looked like you sprayed it well after that. Chlorothalonil has a very long Pre Harvest Interval (PHI) for stone fruit, the time between your last spray and the time you can pick the fruit.
PHI of the same chemical on veggies or on different fruit are different number of days.
I dunno to be honest I use blood meal and just put a little ring around the base
I did spray about 3 days prior to the pics, when would I be able to pick the fruit? I am new to this
Shuck is an outer covering of developing peaches/nectarines, apricots. When those layers split as fruitlets are developing, that stage is called “shuck split”. These are my apricots at shuck split.
Per label, at this stage, it is the last time you can spray peaches with chlorothalonil because this chemical has a long PHI period.
If you need to spray fungicide for brown rot from this point on, you need to choose other fungicide that has shorter PHI.
To me it looks like the new sprouted leaves are not opening. If you physically need peel the halves apart because it seems like the glued together it likely insects over wintering. Peaches are very prone to insects. I lost so many peach and nectarines due to that. In addition to bacterial spot.
Copper spray in late fall as leaves drop and again in the spring before buds swell and at bud swell helps. Even after that I still get bacterial spot but not as bad. A bacterial spot resistant tree will work better in your environment. I will not plant a peach or nectarine that does not have high resitance to bacterial spot.
These work great for me in my rainy humid climate. That is the perfect environment for bacterial spot.
Nectarines: Hardired,Yum Yum, Silver Gem, Harko
Peaches: Desiree, Contender, Polly White, White Lady, Saturn
MiniOrchardDude
