How to graft jujubes?

I’d like to keep the scionwood. So I can graft to the same rootstock? It is going to be about another month until my jujube leafing out. What is the temperature to store the budwood?

Yes, I’ve watched Dr. Yao’s video. I had planned to do it.

store in your fridge(not in the freezer), as long as it is 44F or less. It will be fine if placed in ziploc bag with a piece of moistened napkin. With prized budwood, i also pre-wrap with parafilm, since will be doing it anyway at grafting time.
would be best if you minimize storing with vegies and fruits, due to the effects of ethylene. Ethylene-- on top of chilling-- might be too much for the budwood to handle, since both induce dormancy.

I have a 2nd fridge, no veges and fruits. The most I can think of is bag of onions.

I’m going to read those grafting books again. Already has brand new Swiss budding knife, but never use it.

Hello,

Please let me know where I can buy some jujubee scions.
Thank you
TY

Hello,

Please let me know where I can buy Jujubee scions?
TY

A few listed on figbid , several listings on ebay.

Those are easy to find. If you want a specific variety you may have to search for a while.

There is a scionwood sources thread on this forum that I used to find quite a collection of scionwood this season.
I tried but failed to attach a link that thread. I suppose I need to research how to access other threads.

Try this

And this

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Hello Do you sell Jujubee Scions?
TY

Hi, do you think jujubes are on par with grafting apples and pears, or more challenging? I tried topworking two of my jujubes, and all 6 grafts I made this Spring failed. I was surprised as I’ve generally had good success with apples, pears, apricots, and peaches.

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i see youre in idaho. A late frost would probably be deadlier to juju scions than it is to apple/pear scions. But if you’re in the sun belt, or a region where late frosts/temperature drops are rare, i can safely say grafting jujus are easier, even though have only grafted few pears and apples in my life.

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I wait for leaf out on jujubes and have had success. Grafting too early didn’t go well.

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For the last few years I’ve started grafting jujubes in the last week of March or first week of April and those early grafts do fine.

Jujubes are very resilient- I’ve had grafts that failed (waiting 1.5+ months and nothing), which I open up, extract the scion, make a fresh cut and re-graft elsewhere. And a good chunk of those have worked (2/3 or 3/4 this year, I don’t remember exactly how many times I did it). Though I generally don’t do that unless it is a variety that I really want and have limited access to.

I’m not particularly worried about a late frost, at least soon after grafting. That is because:
1.) The existing trees go through the same conditions and are fine
2.) I’ve had a number of times where I accidentally froze the scions in the dorm-fridge I use for them and they worked fine.

Now, if they have already leafed out, then you have an issue. It’s been a problem for Cliff in KY. But (knocking on wood) is hasn’t impacted me here.

I’ll disagree with this one. I think pears are the easiest, with apples very close. Jujubes are a bit tougher for a few reasons:
1.) Denser wood can be a bit tougher to work with and get a good cambium-contact connection.
2.) It isn’t unusual for jujube grafts to send out leaves, but not actually grow any- no shoot(s). These grafts sometimes die the next winter. If they make it, there is a decent chance of them eventually sending up a shoot, if you keep good sun exposure on it.

I would consider jujubes easier than apricots and much easier than peaches.

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Thanks everyone for the feedback! I will have to give jujubes another shot then.

I did my failed grafts in May when the jujubes were starting to leaf out, and past any significant frost here. I suppose I may have done these grafts too late.

I ordered scions from a new source so perhaps they were a bit old. I also did have an overall high grafting failure this year, I believe due to using doc farwell’s heal & seal (the green stuff) that had gotten overly thick. I’ve used it in the past two years (to coat scions) with success, but it seemed so thick this year it may have “suffocated” the scions or something.

While I like to start early, I continue through late May (a lot of grafting to do). I think it may be a bit better early on, but May works fine. I’ve grafted successfully well into June in the past and the regrafts I mentioned above were done around June 1st this year.

I just use parfilm (moisture seal) and rubber electrical tape (for the union).

I did some late grafts 4 weeks ago because I forgot about the root suckers that I dug up. 5 Honey Jar and one Hetian Jade which I cleft grafted 2 weeks ago. They grew fine but I will overwintered them in the unheated garage and plant them next March. I think they are too thin to plant them now and may die this winter.

Tony

makes me think apples and pears are easier to graft than jujus in colder regions, as my batting averages here with jujus seemed to be higher from what could recall

nonetheless worthy of mention that even well-established juju grafts are susceptible to dieback after a deep freeze in colder climates, in the middle of winter before they’ve leafed out. And there was one instance a few years ago when we had a rare late frost here in vegas which made a mush out of some of our recent grafts’ apical nodes/young leaves/stems. Thus said, i could surmise that juju green growth is even more susceptible to death of viable nodes/buds with a sudden freeze, which effectively translates to death of the graft even with 100% sap flow.

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