I feel like I’ve been trying to fell a tree using a round river rock.
I’m just sitting here laughing at myself for not looking further into the tape I was using.
To make things worse, I had already bought the right tape but was using another. I think they both came in boxes with the same design on the outside. The bad one might be a knockoff.
PS this from a guy who is easily several hundred miles or more from an actual rounded river rock.
We don’t do rocks in Louisiana… Just sand, silt, and mud… Always covered by vegetation
So I did a few grafts this AM, best as I could. Here is the reason I was so anxious to get it done. My Royal Lee is fading fast. These were the meager leaves and branches this AM.
Did 2 grafts. Not the most ideal location as far as branch structure goes, but really I’m just trying to save some RL wood.
Used the ‘proper’ parafilm and a bit of electrician’s tape for strength, then foil. My clay hasn’t arrived yet. No support as I think birds will stay away from the foil.
It was over 100 degrees today. Think i could get the grafts to take in this but im not sure since 104 degrees is getting pretty hot! Its going to take some work to keep the things alive i have now.
Looks like about the same as our forecast. It is summer though. We get through August, it’ll get better and back to “free days” of open windows with no air conditioning or heating. This seems to happen every year
Just noticed this thread. I did a bit of experimenting recently which could be relevant.
I have a jujube seedling (unimaginatively and provisionally named BV1) which I cut back hard last winter for scionwood, down to about 2’ tall. This year, it is up over 5’ tall and has a lot of growth. So much that I decided to thin some out, but I felt bad wasting the potential wood.
I ended up making 5 grafts from this. Most were green-on-green, though I did do a bark graft with the smallest onto a larger branch.
Results after a month:
1.) The one I left a few leaves on died
2.) The 2 smallest, including the bark graft don’t appear to be takes
3.) The 2 larger green-on-green are looking good
No clay or anything. I just put a small bit of parafilm around the bud, used black electrical tape at the union, then covered the tape with parafilm.
Temps weren’t as high as they are now. For the first week, the highs were around 80F. The 2nd week got up to 90F a few times. I may cut another branch and try again now, just to see how things go with most days 88-90F.
I used white air dry modeling clay at the base a little and then put a foil yogurt lid around it. it’s wrapped in buddy tape. little yellow pear on seckel.
So I got my C4 explosive bricks, uh, plastilina in.
Will do a few more grafts (Katy apricot on an aprium and pluot). Do you put the clay directly on the graft or do you use parafilm then add some clay for temp control?
This thread is great! Would never have attempted this during the summer if not for all the success you guys are posting. Did my first ever grafts this weekend-5 cleft grafts with 2 varieties on a mature crabapple and 2 attempted T-buds on plum using a box cutter and bad parafilm and electricians tape
Of course I sliced my thumb really badly before I even completed the first graft haha so between the blood and beginners technique i’ll be ecstatic if I get one take.
Covered them with tin foil tents- how long should i keep those on? I think two weeks was mentioned in this thread as a guideline. Going to try to do at least a dozen more next weekend.
Here is something I forgot about but just found in my notes. I should mention that I have very low success with grafting peaches in the spring.
On October 8th I grafted a 12 inch cutting from a Zee Lady peach seedling to a small peach tree. It grew spring 2021 and I now have peaches on it. I noted that temperatures where in the 60 to 70 range for two weeks in October 2020.
Edit:
Looking at good callusing temperatures, at least temperatures in the fall are good for grafting. Optimum callusing temperatures to ensure a good percentage of viable grafts:
Nectarines/Peaches – 18-26 deg C. ( 64.4 to 78.8F)
Apricots/Cherries – 20 deg C. ( 68F)
Plums – 16 deg C. ( 60.8 F)
Apples/Pears – 13-18 deg C. ( 55.4 to 64.4F)
Walnuts – 27 deg C. (80.6 F)
Grapes – 21-24 deg C. ( 69.8 to 75.2 F)
The foil is to reduce excess heat on the graft by reflecting sun. Useful if black tape is used. You can leave it on until fall temperatures are cooler.
So at what point do we start putting chip buds (or t-buds) on trees and not pushing them this year? I have some seedling pawpaws that I haven’t grafted yet and am trying to decide whether I should top them and graft on top for growth this year or leave them as is and put a bud on the trunks lower down and then top them next spring to get them to push.
Does this approach work for pawpaws and persimmons? Do the chips just die on some trees if not pushed this year? Is it still best to try to get them growth this year? It is time to do my last little bit of grafting so any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
@zendog
I am waiting for someone to come up with your answers. Wondering myself.
After someone posted Cliff’s Pawpaw grafting video I top worked 3 of last year’s seedlings. 100% failed, this was probably in July. Not sure of the cause, too hot, too late, new kind of graft?
Chip budded some Persimmon this spring. The early ones I forced and they took off. The latter ones I am going to force in the spring. Time will tell.
Still wanting to do some fall grafting too.
I have plenty of scion wood still in the fridge or is green wood better?
I’ll probably try both.
Here’s hoping someone who knows the ropes chimes in.
Don’t try to push a bud graft unless the rootstock is growing well. If the root isn’t pushing the graft won’t either. Now is getting too late IMO. April thru June I push after 2-3 weeks. I’ve had lower success later than that.
I routinely graft stone fruits when it’s 90 or warmer with high success. 90 is a good temperature. I do cover grafts but not buds with aluminum foil for two weeks after grafting.
@fruitnut Do you think it is worth putting chips onto seedling rootstocks (I have both dormant scion left and the rootstocks) to force them in the Spring? Otherwise, the scion will go to waste, but of course if it isn’t a good strategy I guess it is better to leave the rootstocks alone and get new scion next year.
