Planted the tree on M7 today. Pretty healthy and fibrous root system here!
This thing had suckers already!
I pruned it out and planted it in a pot. If it grows, I’ll graft another variety on to it! 
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Great way to increase your rootstock. I have done the same thing. Bill
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I have two M7 apples to plant tomorrow. I see the helpful tip here to plant M7 “deep” to minimize root sprouts.
How far above grade should I leave the graft union? I usually leave graft union two inches above grade. Thanks for any ideas.
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@hambone How are your trees on M7 doing? Are you satisfied with this rootstock? What is your soil type?
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Ahmad,
I coearly not Hambone. I have 3 apples on M7. The first two were planted 7-8 years ago before I know what was doing. (still don’t).
One leaned a bit and was poorly pruned. The the 2nd one leaned badly. Both were removed last month. The third one was planted 5 years ago and has stood pretty straight so it is still standing.
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My M7s are doing fine. Not suckering too bad and not leaning. So far, so good. I believe I planted them a little deeper than usual on advice that that reduces suckering.
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You are always welcome to chime in Tippy! I did not originally address you because you had commented earlier on this topic. However, your feedback is different now, so thanks again. I already received two apple trees on M7 (didn’t have other choice with this variety), so will have to be very careful taking care of these trees. I am planning on open-center training.
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For me , on my heavy clay soil , M7 will often fall over , or lean badly.
M111 … a strong but large tree.
I have seen M7 work well on better soils
My trees on M7 fruited in year 3 (year 2 for William’s Pride). No suckering at all. My Gold Rush on M7 stands quite straight.
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Having grown about a dozen apples on M7 and at least half a dozen on M111 to several years of age…including a Fuji and Granny Smith still upright, still alive, and not suckering at age 30.
(The Granny is declining fast and I have already planted a ‘replacement’ on B118 near it.)
Both are slow to bear, M111 being slower.
My soil is sandy loam, and I am hoping that the open center training is more stable than the modified central leader commonly used with apples. I will also stake the tree.
I wonder if M7 would benefit from staking in its early years to guarantee it stays upright, and then be free standing later on.
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Andy, some of mine did lean…but none ever fell over. I never used any stakes and let them crop as early as they wanted. In an un-protected area on the top of the bank beside the highway.
(Clay soil close to the surface and not a lot of topsoil…or I might have chosen MM106).
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I have had some M7 rootstocks (3/8) get pushed over when we had high winds after the ground was saturated. I straightened and supported them and they appear to be fine now (unsupported). As it was suggested, I think they may be susceptible when they are approaching full size, but perhaps not as an established, older tree.
Another thought I had was that it may be a good idea to plant M7 stocks deep (close to the graft union) to 1) provide additional stability and 2) minimize the likelihood of significant burr knot (which has been a problem with M7 when covering the base to protect against rodents). I have a few now that are planted deep, but have not had an adequate period of assessment.
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BlueBerry, what is your favorite apple rootstock?
I think what works best for some people (and some soils, some climates, etc) don’t work so well for others.
This year I ordered 100 B-9 and 20 B-118.
But, over many years, for clay soil, M7 was my choice. Or Antonovka.
For your sandy loam, I’d probably pick MM106.
I’ve tried G11, G16, G41, G202, G30, G890, G210, G214, …
plus B-9, B-10, B-118, M111 M106 M7, MM111, MM106, M7a, seedlings, Antonovka and quince.
The G series from Geneva…the jury is out as to how they do over the long term.
But, for a early-bearing nearly full sized tree I recommend B-118 (but probably not for hot zone 7-9 or higher). There could be problems as the years go by, but I’ve seen none to date.
B-9 is simply for early bearing…and the roots are very hardy and more drought tolerant than M9 or G11, G16 or G41. (And seems to be partly self supporting for a dwarf root).
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This year I didn’t have much choice with rootstocks, as the supply was very short. I ordered five apple trees; two on M7, one on each of B9, G11 and G935. This is my first experience growing apples, as I moved to a new house with bigger lot, and hence can grow more trees (in my old yard I was focused on stone fruits, which are rare to find in high quality, even in local orchards). We’ll see how things go.
Thanks BlueBerry for your feedback! Have you noticed any effect for different rootstocks on the flavor of the same apple variety?
I think you will have better luck with M 7 on your sandy loam soil
Than I ,…with heavy Clay
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M 106 is good on a well drained site .
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