My 4x1 Cherry is on G5. I got it from Raintree. The main trunk of the tree is unmarked. It’s not the rootstock because there is a clear graft union just up from the rootball. All other varieties are chip budded onto this main trunk. The trunk is very vigorous. The thick upper portion of the tree was unmarked but there appears to be Glacier grafted onto it.
Attached is a pic from last April when I received the tree. I grew a few robust shoots out from the upper portion. I feel like I should cut the very thick upper portion of the tree off just above that Glacier graft.
Funny just goes to show all gardening is local. My flavor Queen is the 2nd most dominant on my 4x1. It will be 4th leaf this spring. The grafts are established enough they are not going anywhere. The tree is fairly balanced.
Speaking of cherries my White Gold will be 3rd leaf and should fruit. Also my Carmine Jewel. Looking forward to trying both of these cherries.
On your tree at least cut those thicker branches down, they are fighting to become the central leader for sure. Hopefully others will chime in on this. I’m pruning mine using the KGB method which would not work with a multi-graft.
Flavor king died because I neglected it. I let the poor seven inch graft produce fruit, thus the nutrients were consumed by the fruit rather than the graft, as a result, the scion got nutrient deprived.
Well live and learn! I too have learned to remove flowers or fruit from young trees. I find it really helps establish the plants. I did this most recently with Sweetcrisp blueberry and now I have a very big well established plant. I can now let it fruit. I’m so glad I did this.
Keep the varieties in balance! I started off with a 4in1 cherry with one highly vigorous variety and others not so much. After some diligent summer pruning over two seasons, I now have 3 vigorous varieties but the Van (on the left) is still taking it’s time.
My first thought was to use a tart cherry to give winter hardiness to peaches, but as we talked about I have to change the ploidy level of the peach. Which can be done, and one day I will do this. For now I want to cross a sweet cherry with a peach just to see if I can get a take. My thoughts are that I will not get a cross. That a certain amount of luck is needed. I also have some cherry seeds from Europe I want to grow out. I need a dark cherry. The seeds will most likely not come true, Which is fine, I just want them to be dark. The seeds come from this cherry
My goal here is to impart some cherry flavor into a peach. The only sweet I have near my peach trees is a White Gold, A cross of Emperor Francis and the self fertile, red cherry, Stella. Emperor Francis grows better here than rainier, and is just as good or better. I also have a Glacier cherry tree, although that is at my cottage, and not convenient to use. i would have to collect pollen.
I would think we would have some of these crosses around if they were easy to do. I suspect getting a take will be difficult if not impossible. Some pluots will not pollinate each other, so this is not a given. Getting an interspecific cross requires a fair amount of luck.
It can’t hurt to try though!
Simple, for now. Each stage needs to be evaluated to determine what direction to go next.
Yes Indian Free offers advantages to use, plus the fact it is one killer peach. One of my major goals was to produce these peaches, and I waited 3 years after wanting to taste one. In three years you build up some mighty high expectations, and well Indian Free did not disappoint! At least for me, what I like, what I expected, it was perfect for me, at last something actually lives up to expectations.The three year wait was well worth it. And I’ll have more next year!
(The tree produced 21 fruits this year).
Well I only have Stella x Emperor Francis. which will have to do, for now.
A simple cross that made it bigtime! …White Gold!
Anyone have any luck or input grafting pluots onto cherry root stock? My cherry tree is about 10 years old. A 4 graft cherry tree from Costco. It’s very good setting and pest free. Sounds like I have got lucky. No spray.
Trying either way, but it would be nice to see what others have done.? Pluots: 4 kinds
I’m afraid your cleft grafts (at the end of the branches) have an issue. You can’t successfully graft by placing the scion in the middle of the wood. There is no cambium layer for the scion to communicate with. I can’t tell if the ones towards the bark on each side are in contact either.
I have read that, and been told that. But my 3 honeycrisp I did that way that all callused and grew last winter, and the 4 pluerry I did September 1st still holding leaves would disagree. I wanted to see for myself.
It could be the fact all the scions touch ends to edge, I angle the one so they all overlap. I also leave long (2” of stringy bark, think celery strings) that I wrap into the outer bark. So far if it ain’t broken don’t fix it. Seems to be working for me.
I have also found terminal ends taking line 99% of the time. Where middle pieces seem to be like 25%. Across peaches, pluerry, apple, plums, cherries, and hopefully soon pluots.
My cleft triple middles (like that) also took on my pineapple guava. Thanks again for the cuts Winn.
I also only do the end cut at a major branch node. Right where the “collar” is. The outer ones touch, and wrap the stringy ends just like the middle scion.
Sorry, had to step out for the PTA meeting tonight.
Yes, my honey crisp. The pluerry held leaves until first frost. That’s 60 days past graft, so still green and plump and had leaves until last weekends frost. Not eating pluerries yet off them, but they usually dry up in 3 weeks if they didn’t take. I also did 3 on a flavortop nectarine. The outer one died, but the middle and other side held on thru this summer. I added Indian free peach.
They were all small diameter, and soft and flexible. The scion grafts all touch across the length of the cleft. Like a ground wire through a circuit. Seems to work, someone showed me this. I saw it somewhere. This is how I do the middle one. Then splay it out to each edge of the cambian
