I have two emitters per vine but I water based on need. As of now my vines haven’t needed additional water. Your vine needs are most likely different at your location.
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Black Beauty got fried in a 30 degree frost late last week. Lost all the tender new leaves that had unfurled. About 50% of the leaf buds had not fully opened yet and those seem to be fine.
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I haven’t had frost damage but those spurs might put out new buds. Keep us posted on whether or not the spurs put out new fruit buds. Thanks
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Got an email from Isons about a few Majesty they have still. Anyone growing them?
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So I noticed that spotted lanternfly nymphs are swarming my muscadines.
I know there was a lot of concern over them initially which has since died down - is that because they really aren’t a problem?
Or should I be spraying something like Triazicide (Gamma-Cyhalothrin) on them right now?
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I haven’t seen the spotted lantern fly at my location and I hope they never show up. Some of the other forum members might be able to add to your post.
My backyard wild muscadine… I built a trellis for it 20 years ago… prune it a little each spring. That is all it gets. Looking fruitful again this year.
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Poor Black Beauty. The late frost really knocked it out. Not single a living leaf, bud, or shoot. Surprising since Paulk and Lane didn’t miss a beat…but they were about a week behind in growth. BB was in a hurry to leaf out.
Any action I should take? Read some stuff on UGA and NCSt that says to just leave everything alone and cross your fingers if complete shoot kill happens.
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I would just wait awhile and see if it pushes new buds. It might push along the cordon or from the roots.
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Those are good looking bud clusters especially from wild vines.
Yes, I would definitely recommend spraying them. They are especially fond of grapes. I found here at my location if I wiped out the nymphs I didn’t have any problems later in the year.
My late fry is putting out a ton of flower clusters, at least four per shoot and many already having five or six clusters. It is on its third leaf although more like second since I had to cut back the arms and regrow them after terrible cicada damage last year.
I think I should thin it, probably leaving the ones closest to the arms since they should mature earlier. Should I thin them now to keep them from wasting energy or wait to see what fruit set? It is also needed to pollinate the Supreme next to it, so I don’t know if leaving all flowers for now will help, particularly since I expect they’ll open at different times.
Thoughts?
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Leave it be. It may bud out or you might get another shoot from the roots. If it comes back from the roots it grows really fast.
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My thoughts for today. The secret to muscadines survival in the wild in my opinion is their ability for the male and female to bloom simultaneously. Then along comes self fertile varieties and this almost changes everything except that we still have several females to get pollinated. As I looked over my female vines yesterday I spotted a few open flowers and I started thinking that they won’t get pollinated. Never fear because even though the self fertile don’t need outside pollen they still have the habit of the flowers opening in almost perfect sequence as the female vines. As of the day before I didn’t see any open flowers on my self fertile Hall but today it was at about 20 % open. Now all I need to be concerned with is the weather and of course the voracious appetite of the Japanese Beetles which also appears to be peeking as the muscadine flowers open.
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Made a big harvest this morning. Not muscadines but I did collect about 30 Japanese Beetles. As of now I’m pleased with my new location and my vines planted in February 2021 appear to be growing well. Some of the vines are getting close to the soil so I will need to do a little lower trim before the next cutting. The vines grew well last year with a considerable amount of attention and they are all loaded with buds and blooms. Hall has the heaviest set of blooms but Oh My has a pretty sizeable amount also.
Oh My
Hall
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Muscadines flower profusely but rarely set more than 4 or 5 grapes per cluster. Redgate is the only variety I know of that sets very large clusters.
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The beetles are congregating in larger groups of 2-5. I’m collecting about this many twice a day. Every once in awhile one escapes my container of soapy water.
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I like to see the heavy set of flowers but I only get a good feeling about the crop size when they get bb to pea size.
Pyganic is a very effective organic control for Japanese beetles. It is a deadly poison that must be handled with care. Spray muscadines twice a week for a month and the japanese beetles will roll off the vines dead for about an hour after each spray. It is also useful for beans and other vegetables for which organic pest control is desired.
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