New Member in south IL with a few fruit trees looking for spray advice

[dkr06022012]

Here are a few pictures of the peach tree leaves and the spots on the apple tree.

[ribs1]

I’ll go off topic here. 1. You need way more trees. 2. The guides here are very good. Scott has the low impact spray schedule and Alan has a synthetic schedule. Both of these guides are probably better than most guides published by major universities. I have been using Alan’s schedule for at least 10 years with mostly great success. I have late apple fly maggot here and a few other things so I have to spray more than the 3 times Alan recommends.

I hope you spend a lot of time here. Many contributors have tons of reports on interesting varieties off all types of fruit.

[dkr06022012]

Here are a few more.

[mamuang]

Your peaches look like a bacterial spot issue.

Stone Fruit Disease - Bacterial Spot

The apples look like a scab issue than cedar apple rust. Close up pics of affected leaves will be helpful.

Apple Scab

[sockworth]

I agree about the apple scab. On peach could it be peach scab, both sounds similar.

• “Leaves will develop yellow spots on their underside. As the tissue on the leaves dies it falls out, leaving shot holes.”

• “Leaves are also susceptible and if infected, will have round and yellowish green spots on the underside. Diseased leaves may dry up and drop off prematurely.”

@dkr06022012, I also suggest to do dormant spray of copper + horticultural oil next year.

[mroot]

Hi-

I am in Illinois as well in the central Illinois area.

For cherries in Illinois tart cherries are much easier to grow than sweet cherries. Best cultivars for sweet cherries in Illinois are BlackGold and WhiteGold. An older heirloom cultivar Black Tartarian is also a decent choice. In Illinois sweet cherries require dedication, a good spray schedule and some way to keep the birds away ( a net or bird scare tape).

This thread will give you an idea of what you will face.

Eastern Sweet Cherries

Interesting sweet cherry article shown below. This article is interesting to us in Kansas because bacterial canker is a problem here as well like in the east. https://www.canr.msu.edu/uploads/files/Research_Center/NW_Mich_Hort/Training_Pruning_Varities/SweetCherryVarietiesEasternUS_2004.pdf “Sweet Cherry Varieties for Eastern U.S. By: Robert L. “Bob” Andersen, Professor of Horticulture, Dept. of Horticultural Sciences, N.Y.S.A.E.S., Cornell University, Geneva, NY 14456 Briners - Sweet cher…

For spraying we have two spray guides. One is organic and one is synthetic. For stone fruits sweet cherries, peaches, etc. most people struggle with the organic one and eventually move to the synthetic one. In Illinois for apples the organic one may work.

Synthetic spray schedule

Spray Schedule- Synthetic Materials

Alan Haigh- The Home Orchard and Nursery Co. REPRINT PERMISSION FROM ALAN HAIGH REQUIRED Low Spray Schedule for Home Orchards in the Northeast Here’s my spray schedule for the scores of orchards I manage around SE NY adapted for home owners managing a few fruit trees. It has functioned well for me for over 2 decades, although J. Beetles and brown rot of stone fruit increases the number of sprays and necessary pesticides some years some sites. Stink bugs are also an increasing problem,…

Organic spray schedule

Low-Impact Spray Schedule (2019 Edition)

Here is my “low impact” spray schedule, updated from this old version - Low Impact Spray Schedule (old version). This has been refined over about 15 years of successes and failures. My rough guide for low impact is no wide-spectrum poisons, which also means no PyGanic or rotenone. Spinosad is about as broad a poison that I use. I don’t personally draw the line at organic vs not, but this schedule is mostly organic and I will suggest some substitutions if you want to be 100% organic. My goal …

Welcome to the forum.

[scottfsmith]

I agree the peach has bacterial spot and the apple has scab. Both are extremely common diseases. Copper at leaf fall and again in spring before leaves open is a good treatment for the peach. For scab myclobutanil is the best thing… I think Immunox spray still contains it.

[dkr06022012]

So from the many different spray schedules I have read, will these 3 sprays take care of the problems I have?

[IL847]

If the peach has bacteria spot issue, you need copper spray

[dkr06022012]

Here is some of our backyard. I have not talked my wife into letting me plant anything back here yet!

[dkr06022012]

Sorry for all the questions!

Is there anything that I can spray at this particular time to help the trees?

[mamuang]

You can spray Immunox on apples to protect against scab and cedar apple rust.

Nothing you can do for peach scab or bacterial spot at this point.

Later you may see flagging shoots of peaches. That’s when you can spray Sevin for Oriental Fruit moth (OFM).

What is the main ingredient of your Sevin? I can’t enlarge the label to read it.

[dkr06022012]

Zeta-Cypermethrin

Thank you for the reply. I will pick some of that up next time I am at the store.

So just for clarification, I can mix the Sevin and the Immunox for bugs and some diseases now? Then the Captan (or some other copper spray) in the dormant season?

[IL847]

Besides taking care the diseases, you might want to give it a good doses of fertilizer to encourage the tree grow more leafs.

[mamuang]

To br honest, you can save Sevin by not spraying it as you have no fruit. Your issue with OFM may not be a big deal since your trees are young.

Immunox/fungicide and be mixed with pesticide and sticker.

[mamuang]

The post I linked below is about growing fruit in our backyards. See most recent posts # 1081-# 1083 re. spraying.

Backyard Orchards, chronicling, musing and more

I do the live trap- then airgun for quick end. they get a nice last meal in the thing, that’s for sure. haven’t gotten one yet this year. last year, we got over 30. my partner has a soft heart and won’t kill them.

[dkr06022012]

Thank you for the replies.

I was mowing this afternoon and noticed these 2 buds on the Honeycrisp Tree. Are those fruit buds? If so should I pinch them off or let them grow?

Also here is our front yard. Mix of oak and maples.

[IL847]

Yes. Flower buds.recommend pinch off

[dkr06022012]

By the time I was able to get around to messing with the trees, those buds were dried up and brown.

Yesterday evening I sprayed the first round of Immunox. Some of the peach leaves seemed to have grown back and look good for right now.

On a side note the deer decided they needed a snack. Got some of the leaves and small branches on the peach trees and took the top 6” or so off the small golden delicious. I know the best defense would be a fence (but I know my wife would not allow that). Last year I tried some spray from the local farm supply store that did not seem to deter them at all. I have read about Irish Spring soap and dryer sheets. Do either of these work for anyone. Eradication is not a viable option either…in-laws have 165 acres next door and the neighbors have 200+ acres on the other side. So the deer population is large.

[mroot]

Repellents are just a temporary solution. You also need to reapply them (and not forget to reapply them). I don’t think that will work for you in the long term. Many of us on the forum make cages out of fencing to protect the trees when they are young. I think that is a better approach. Here is a thread that discusses cages.

Size of fruit tree cages?

I’m looking at building some wire cages to protect some fruit trees and also some Romance series bush cherries from deer. What height of fence do you all recommend using and what diameter? Thanks!

Really fencing in the orchard is the best solution but I don’t have a fenced in orchard. I do have deer pressure and I managed to live with it but I have some damage each year.