Notching to Increase Branching

General Fruit Growing
#21

I used notching on my American persimmon and pie cherries last year. It worked pretty well, but not perfectly. The hardest thing was remembering to notch a few weeks before bloom.
John S
PDX OR

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#22

JohnS:

Good feedback. I sincerely appreciate it. I appreciate you clarifying that the timing is important to getting a successful result.

Thanks again for your input. Have a great day.

Russ

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#23

Some suggest notching at or a couple days before bloom is most effective, I believe. Check the link you provided. The only reference to timing indicated that you want to notch just before (or at bloom for apples. Check table 5

file:///C:/Users/aland/Downloads/Notching%20Techniques%20Increase%20Branching%20of%20Young%20Apple%20Trees%20(2).pdf

This is also the best time to score trunks to inspire fruiting. Iā€™ts based on the same principals. Donā€™t let the heals wound before first important growth. Thereā€™s likely some variability between species, but I doubt a lot between cultivars.

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#24

Alan:

Thank you for your feedback, and I apologize for my delay in reply as I have been away from the computer.

You are correct, the publication as the following statement: "The most effective time to notch was ā‰ˆ2 to 4 weeks before full bloom.ā€

Given that early blooming species and cultivars are eminent here (to my dismay), I have begun notching a few trees every few days to see what, if any conclusions I can yield from this exercise in terms of success both within and between species and with and without nodes at various timing before bloom. Weā€™ll see!

Thanks again for your helpful input. I sincerely appreciate it.

Russ

#25

I read somewhere recently that notching risks creating a fireblight entry point although I have not seen that here. As my paranoia about blight grows I may notch less.

#26

Have any thoughts on just using a PGR? This could be applied mixed with latex paint and applied with a paint roller, only on blind wood or areas of the tree your wanting increased branching. No worries about creating a wound for disease or fireblight entry.

#27

Hope others will respond to your PGR question- itā€™s out of my realm.

#28

Sorry, more of a suggestion than a question really. We will be trying this out in our tall spindle trees this spring under advice of our consultant. Will be using it in our high tunnel cherries also. Fast growing trees in a spindle system often fail to push lateral buds. Resulting in areas of blind wood.

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#29

I donā€™t understand the significance of 2-4 weeks before bloom ?
It seems to me , the purpose of notching is to block the flow of auxin , coming down the tree, fooling it into thinking it has been cut off. And hence , shoots to push from below the notch.
I usually make notches , while dormant pruning, with good results. And have made some early in the growth period too.
It seems to me , anytime from dormant through the early flush period should be satisfactory.
Not sure about any real important date. ? As. Long as it is done early.

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#30

I think thatā€™s a misprint if it says that, in the table I mentioned the word was days not weeks, which would agree with my understanding from reading literature on the subject over the years.

#31

Frankks:

Thank you for your reply. I did a bit of research and this is a fascinating concept. Are you using a product such as MaxCel? Do you have any information concerning best-practices concerning its use?

Thank you for your feedback- certainly an intriguing idea.

#32

Thank you, Hillbillyhort. I appreciate your experienced feedback. I hope I have half as much success that you have.

Thanks again-

Russ

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#33

Thank you, Alan. I am going to go with you. I know youā€™ve forgotten more on the subject than Iā€™ve learned in the course of my research.

Thanks again- I appreciate it.

Russ

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#34

Maxcel seems to be the latest weapon of choice for Apple branching. The best way to apply it seems to be mixed with latex paint at 4 ounces maxcel to 1pint white latex paint. Use a small 2 inch roller or sponge to apply it. Apply only on 1 year old wood at early bud swell but before bud break. You can also apply it with a sprayer in water at a much less concentration after bud break . There is a lot of info out there on this. Look for articles by Win Cowgill from Rutgers or Jon Clements from Umass. Jon was just out to our farm last month discussing this. We will be using latex and rollers on several thousand trees this spring. Iā€™ll try an remember to post some pics. Good Luck. Frank

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#35

Hell, Iā€™ve forgotten more than I know:wink:

#36

Thank you for your feedback, Frank. I spoke with the Valent rep yesterday and he promised me that their Cornell-educated PhD tree guy would call me back to discuss their recommended approach to using MaxCel for inducing scaffold development. It sounds like you all already have it worked out.

Thanks again for your input. I sincerely appreciate it!

Russ

#37

Alan:

Thank you for your reply. I can certainly identify with this sentiment in other realms of experience, but definitively not in fruit growing.

Thanks again for all your help and advise along the way. I appreciate it!

Russ

1 Like
#38

Jon Clements did a notching vs. promalin vs. control experiment on whip apples, hereā€™s a video:

the article he wrote isnā€™t yet open access but itā€™ll be here when it is:
http://www.umassfruitnotes.com/v86n3/Cover863.html

summary: notching was extremely effective, promalin was sort of effective

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#39

Great video, z0r!
Notching works!
I use it primarily on my American persimmon trees. They lose side branches a lot.

One detail I seem to be noticing: The notch should be just above a bud. I made many notches last year and I didnā€™t realize that the specific location of the notch is crucial.

John S
PDX OR