That’s the legitimate way for nurseries to sell more trees- on fully dwarfing rootstocks.
Are those your trees? Nice photo. It would also be a nice treat for my deer and squirrels.
I wish they were. It’s taken from the article listed below the photo.
If homegrowers all grew their trees on dwarfing rootstocks I wouldn’t have a viable business.
Not sure I understand the legally " part? You buy a patented tree and plant it…whether it’s right next to another patented variety or planted all by its lonesome.
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@Oregon_Fruit_Grow
This ^
Exactly the way I approach backyard gardening. It need it to fit the space and meet my expectations and needs.
I am trying to grow fruit for several reasons. I enjoy it…it’s cathartic. If they live, I get spring blossoms. If they bloom I may get some fruit.
Period.
I don’t live on a big piece of land. I am not a commercial grower. I won’t be trying to sell my produce. I can only eat so much fruit.
I already have planted waaaaay more than makes any practical sense…but I’m enjoying it anyway. One way or another I fully expect nature to take most of what I get, whether insects, animals, winds, or disease.
So I’m using the #9 shot method and hoping some hit.
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It would be nice to hear from someone that has 4 trees in a hole for 8 to 10 yrs and see some photos. So far there are only comments from those that are trying it for a few years or those that had trees die.
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Some argue that a multi grafted tree is better than 3/4-in-1 hole, and the only reason to do this is if you don’t graft.
Well you can’t legally graft patented varieties without permission (which I doubt happens). So if you want to do things legally, have very limited space, and want multiple patented varieties, then 3/4-in-1 is a logical solution.
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Gotcha… I was having trouble figuring out the post.
BTW I have several of Zaiger’s interspecific trees. Great work they do and an unbelievable about of time and effort goes in to developing a commercially viable tree.
That being said many of their trees are now out of patent, so grafting is OK.
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You have gotten a lot of good comments and perspective. Here’s mine.
I planted many fruit trees close to one another (5’ ) because I did not have space (still don’t). Because I did not plan to prune like a 3/4 in 1, by years 6, they were unmanageable (partly due to my lack of pruning skills). I got ride of 3 trees (2 apples, 1 sweet cherry) in that space to give breathing room for the remaining trees. It is a bit more manageable.
Now, for plum trees, it is a lot harder to grow plums in our humid east. Besides insects, fungus and bacteria can do serious damage on fruit trees. Hope you plan to spray
Re. Plum trees, these things grow fast and throw out 8 -10 ft long canes. I thought I gave them more space at 8’. Not quite as I train them to open center.
These plums were planted in 2017 so only 6 years old. On the left is a multi grafted Euro plum, formerly known as Coe’s Golden Drop. On the right is a Mirabelle Parfume de Septembre (with a few other grafted on it.
I know you will prune them. I hope your trees will not be so lopsided that they would fall over. Mirabelle sets tons of fruit. Though its fruit are small but with many of them, they will add to the weight. Mine are on Marianna 2624. They have a tendency to lean over. In fact, I removed a Castleton on this row already as it leaned too much.
The enemy #1 for plum is brown rot, IMO. However, bacterial canker could be a concern, too, esp. if you have to keep pruning the trees over and over causing open wounds.
I admire your commitment and determination. I wish you success.
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Thanks for the feel back. Those are some healthy trees!
Though it sounds like a bit of a copout, it is what it is.
Spraying will be needed for sure though with this as with everything internet, there is plenty of unclear directions for what, when, and how.
Post some fruit photos of your trees when they start to turn… Especially the mirabelle as I planted a parfume de September as well.
I’ve done similar approach with growing vegetables. I call it guerrilla gardening on your property, I have a few raised beds in which I grow storage crops (Squash, Potato, Onions etc.) and grow all summer veggies in containers placed all around the house where I get sun exposure. That works extremely well and we grow a lot of food. It takes a lot more extra effort every season but worth it IMO, I put in place a drip system this year to make watering easier. I am looking forward to the growing season.
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Re. Spray, do not need to look far, check the forum’s Guide category.
We have both low spray and synthetic spray version. You can spend time this year reading up and acquiring the spray you need.
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Before they ripened. It sets in abundance. If not thinned well, the tree will go biennial.
And the birds.
Untimely rain causing split.
And you think it is only insects and diseases that we have to deal with!!
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Will do and thanks!
I’m sure splitting will be an issue here as well depending on the timing of our rains and the ripening window.
They still eat the same though unless you are forced to pick early.
I don’t mind a slightly tart plum though…
Thanks for the photos.
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Nice decoration, but what is that, about $20 of fruit?
One dwarf frankentree would be much better, plant a winter banana (apple) tree, then on each branch graft pears, Asian pears, and favourite apple varieties, if you want to make it perfect graft the top of the tree with Clara Frijs pear, and then Asian pear on top of that.
Winter banana is an apple cultivar compatible with pears.
Clara Frijs is a European pear compatible with apples.
You’ll get to guess which of the trees is sending up the St Julian suckers 
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Suckers happen… I’d imagine it will be worse after the first few years.
Sometimes you get some bad with the good. Maybe I’ll harvest some and graft additional trees.
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I often plant trees either in one hole or very close to each other, a foot or so apart in my backyard. The trees are small, usually grafted the same spring, and planted in June in my zone 3 climate. Its a great idea for me in my zone when I’m experimenting with numerous varieties to see if they can survive -40F in winter above the snow. Usually one or two, or even all 3 of these small trees are not hardy enough in my zone and die. But often a particular variety is at least marginally hardy for me, but the other tree or two in the immediate area are not, and “nature does the spacing for me”. I’m mainly experimenting with pears, plums and cherries from other cold climate areas as a hobbyist.
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That’s what I do. But I try to figure out which tree the came from so I know what rootstock I have.
Growing fruit in the humid region means that you cannot use the spigot to reduce vegetative vigor and planting trees close doesn’t seem to have the dwarfing affect is might where you can apply deficit irrigation. When blocked from the sun trees tend to try to grow up.
If I was serious about 4 trees to a hole I’d probably tie all growth to below horizontal on nearby branches in order to achieve adequate dwarfing.
Incidentally, the virtue of patented trees in a small orchard is not very significant, IMO. The only patented varieties that are especially useful to me are Barnsby strain early Pink Lady and Jonaprince Jonagold. Pluots just haven’t been very productive and are frozen out again this year as they were last. They also tend to be propagated by DW on citation rootstock and aren’t adequately vigorous.
Flavor Grenade is off patent and one of the more productive varieties here and is also resistant to bacterial spot, which makes many pluots not worth growing in our humidity. It is an interesting fruit because of the high sugar it gets while still firm. Yum a crispy plum! No evidence of cot at all.
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