Now you have me wondering about your soil conditions because I also mulched heavily, but have have a fair bit of clay in that area of the property. For the seeds that I just planted, I (well, my son) used a post hole drill and went down about a foot and a half (if I remember correctly). I filled the hole with a compost/sand/peat/perlite. I will mulch once the seedling emerges. I am also planning on watering well. Basically, I am trying to see how much of a difference it will (or won’t) make if I provide what I believe to be “optimal conditions”.
I actually don’t know if all of the pawpaws that look dead are actually dead because more than once I have had the top of a pawpaw die back and then re-emerge from the root late spring. I’m hoping that that’s the case for at least some of them.
Some of my pawpaws are planted in soil exactly like that, and some others in superior soil that is black loam for well over a foot before it hits the Georgia red clay. I actually haven’t noticed any difference in performance between the two sets, although I do start fertilizing after the first year.
I did amend my soil by mixing it around 50:50 with whatever was on hand (potting soil, aged manure, different from tree to tree) and I dug long, narrow holes like yours — all to give the taproot less resistance. Later, I dug up one of the trees that had been topkilled by 2023’s frost, and sure enough, the taproot was down at least a couple feet — around the height of the tree, if not more — and the worms or something had dispersed most of my soil amendments so that it looked to be native soil, i.e., red clay. Hard to see how it would be getting much oxygen down there, but maybe it only needs a minute amount to function.
I wonder if it might not just be harder to grow first-year seedlings than young grafted trees.
I planted 7 pawpaws last year. 4 grafted and 3 seedlings. All the pawpaws in full sun, both grafted and seedlings, died. The paw paws in partial shade survived. This is in zone 7, NV, so summer temps are in the 90s and dry and at 4k elevation, the sun is intense. The trees received deep watering three times a week through the summer and fall.
Just a drive-by comment but this could have more to do with the stunting than the shade.
Seems true at my place, where trees nearer the forest line are much smaller or dead.
That’s a good point that I didn’t consider. The soil starts to get richer and deeper as you get closer to the woods, but then there is probably some root competition as well.
It’s worth mentioning that the woods that I am speaking of is itself full of wild pawpaw trees. On the other hand, most of those wild trees are small. My guess is that it is the lack of light more than the root competition, but I am admittedly speculating.
I’m glad you are having success with pawpaws in such an unconventional location!
I tried for several years in a row to grow pawpaws in Las Vegas (zone 9 NV).
I was never able to get them to survive. On my final and most sophisticated attempt, I had them surrounded with shade cloth, drip irrigated, misted by a timer several times a day, and protected from the wind. Still didn’t matter. I never had one make it past July.
The level of sun intensity out here, with blue skies and no humidity almost every day, is at an entirely different level than the east coast. Adding in the oppressive heat in Southern Nevada is a killer combination for pawpaws (and a lot of other fruit trees, too). At least it cuts down tremendously on the disease pressure.
One aspect to this topic of full sun on seedlings, is where pawpaws are being grown. Full sun in Texas is a LOT different than full sun in New York.
The point should be made that although it’s possible pawpaw seedlings can SURVIVE in full sun the first season, in certain locations, this does not mean it is BEST for their growth and establishment. IMO even if somehow they tolerate that, it is very likely not the best and could be causing stress. Survivable stress is not equal to thriving.
I grow all my seedling out the first 2 seasons in a hightunnel painted with shade painted to about 30-40% shade. By the end of the season it’s around 20% shade as the paint washes off.
I’m in central Alabama zone 7b. Hard red and rocky clay.
Did very little amending of the soil and it severely stunted their growth. Tried letting them have full sun the first and second year and they got fried. Tried not watering the second year and they dropped almost all their leaves.
I have a buddy 30 minutes down the road that has some planted in good soil. Never shaded them (didn’t know he had to) and has never watered them. Started fruiting the second year
Maybe it’s his high organic soil that’s keeping the stress down? Maybe it’s because he got the trees locally and they were accustomed to our harsh heat? Maybe both?
My area is really hot and dry most summers. He usually gets more rain even though we’re only 30 minutes away. I’ve tried not babying them but it looks like I’ll need to the first few years. Also, I’ve planted other things and amended the soil and that seems to help a lot.
I’ll be planting last years pawpaw grafts this spring. We’ll see how these do with amended soil and a little babying
