That’s what I thought! Water would kill you if you drank to much lol
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I grafted Rappahannock on that tree since it is at the front of one of my pawpaw rows, due to the unique look. I will probably put some limb spreaders on it this fall, considering the growth is so vertical. I can send you scions of it this winter, if you are interested.
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But on the other end of the spectrum I found this plucky volunteer pawpaw going pretty strong considering it’s on very compacted soil.
I put some Black Kow around it and have been watering it. 
The mess is from recent fence installation.
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If someone is ready to graft it within a couple days you can cut a scion, out or in a wet bag or a bottle of Water, when you get home keep it in water in the refrigerator and then graft it.
Grafting can be done almost all year.
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Are you saying the scion does not have to be dormant for grafting?
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I wanted to share this idea and get other people’s thoughts. I planted my pawpaws in a place that’s great for them sun wise for years 3+ but not 1 and 2. I tried shade cloth and it seems to work well. I also tried another method: not weeding. It seems to work well. I used to cut back the weeds to improve airflow but I haven’t noticed any mildew so it may not be necessary.
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Anyone have any experience planting pawpaws in sand along the edge of a lake?
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It just needs to heal together before the scion dries out, and end up in a state that it survives the Winter and wakes up the following Spring (or it’s not particularly useful). Lots of weird stuff nobody in the nursery trade does for practical/business/logistics reasons probably works fine. Green wood grafts on persimmon were tried out and very successful in another thread.
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That’s correct. Chip budding is an obvious technique, patch grafting too, but there are many more ways!
When you collect the Scion wood pinch off most or all of the leaves are put them under something with water, a plastic bag with a spoonful of water is usually enough.
Now here’s a big thing the cuttings you take need to have developed buds, dormant or just barely opening should be okay, they’re usually above or below the leaf stems, but if you’re unlucky the only one will be at the tip of the branch, or none and you’ll have to keep a half a leaf or two alive until it really grows, and then you may need a more complicated method, I’ll mention you in a thread where I explain that one.
No one sufficiently stresses, so I will: PARAFILM! Wrap the whole scion with Parafilm, and if it’s not fully shaded under a branch that you plan to cut later, wrap it with newspaper and if it’s in very hot or full sun conditions, definitely aluminum foil.
Here’s a video from one of my favorite grafters on YouTube!
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There is a t-budding tutorial in the guides and I have tried it for pear, peach and apple successfully. I hope to try it this year for pawpaw. The scions can either be this year’s growth (look for this year’s growth with leaf buds on it - you can cut the current leaves off- but the buds need to be there) or the scions need to be dormant in your fridge.
Where I am on the east coast, sometimes appropriate “bud wood” that is this year’s growth is not ready yet in early aug- but I have gotten it in aug/sept. So you may have to wait a bit until you can collect it.
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@treefrogtim tried green-grafting pawpaw several posts above.
How’d that turn out? (Or did I miss it…)
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That is rough. How dry does the soil feel under the mulch? I would think those would be pretty deeply rooted by now, but I guess it doesn’t take much root desiccation this time of year to cause leaf stress. We were under 2” for July until we picked up a little over a 1/2” the other day. I have more of a meadow look going on out there though with leaf mulch and dropped comfrey around the trees to suppress plant growth around the trees.
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Yeah I think it’s pretty much bone dry under the mulch.
I’m coming to think what my neighbor told me 10 years ago is true: “Y’cain’t grow nuthin back’air.” 
That is, the soil is very shallow due to being on the side of a small “mountain” - the whole back of my property is on top of a limestone shelf, the edge of which is exposed on the whole east side (which looks neat).
There’s also ultra high soil calcium levels (limestone!) which locks out other nutrients most notably magnesium.
It’s just not a good place for pawpaws without constant care - some of which I’ve tried to supply with the 100% mulch over hundreds of square feet. But I think after last season and this I’ve realized I would need to regularly irrigate every tree starting in July. It could totally be done with time and money , just not sure if I want to.
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Didn’t work out, at least the way that I tried it!
Pretty sure Timothy Lane had some good success with doing fall chipbuds. Letting the graft heal in the fall and forcing the bud in spring.
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KSU says T-Budding is not very successful with pawpaws, but I have not tried it
myself
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Probably, but you could try it. Depending on location you have around 50-70 days of warm weather to bond and sprout. May not be able to lignify the shoot in time before frost.
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@Vid
Agree with Blake’s comments.
I checked my journal - i grafted on 7-30-22 and those worked fine and are still going strong.
WOOHOO I got the 1000th post! Hahaha
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