As i continue investigating rootstocks i keep coming back to old home and i really wonder about the origin of it http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/html/acc_search.pl?accid=%20PI+541237
This rootstock designated |Status:|Not Available|
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This rootstock reminds me a lot of my small yellow pear. Its on my to grow list! According to the USDA its one of the old home pears called # PI 541238
’OH 50’
https://npgsweb.ars-grin.gov/gringlobal/accessiondetail.aspx?accid=PI+541238
Here is another i plan to work with (Not available to order)
PI 541237
’OH 20
https://npgsweb.ars-grin.gov/gringlobal/accessiondetail.aspx?accid=PI+541237
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Very interesting articles on pear rootstocks! Thanks for posting!
I was interested to read about quince rootstocks not hardy enough for the Pacific Northwest, where I live. I’ve read a number of things about quince not being ideal for pears, but a number of years ago I bought a Maxie pear on quince from a local nursery. I wanted a better rootstock, but that is all they had. I don’t know which quince rootstock.
That variety isn’t the greatest, so far but the tree survived the historic winter a few years ago. For midwestern growers, I know it’s not that cold, but it was 9 F in my yard.
The Pacific Northwest has diverse climates, from maritime in the west, to high desert in the east, so it’s hard to have a one size fits all recommendation. I wont be too upset if some winter my pear on quince doesn’t make it, although it’s now a frankentree with four other varieties.
I wonder if quince on quince is also not hardy enough, or if its just those tootstocks or just the quince/pear combination?
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@Bear_with_me
They are getting closer everyday on better rootstocks in your area because of the need that exists. The experts are reacting to the discovery of old home x bartlett being the ohxf cross. Farmingdale im growing to fruit now and making new crosses this year. Those fruitlets on that tree contain seeds for some future rootstocks. Im already growing out some from my small yellow pear. Im also looking hard at many of the canadian pears. Harrow delight is likely a better rootstock than what we use currently. It’s grafts have taken 100% of the time on everything i grafted it to. Once i have oh20 and oh50 i can determine what growth habits they have and likely match them with things i grow already to determine how to best use them in the future.
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My Maxie pear has this root stock. Is anyone familiar with it? I tried to look it up but couldn’t find anything about it.
Do you mean “Prem 1P” ? If so I believe that refers to the patent on Maxie, not the root stock. I haven’t known Stark to specify what root stock they’re using.
This is the information your looking for Sneak peak at Stark Brothers rootstocks . On asian pears they are known to use BET rootstock on dwarf euros they are known to use quince…
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The area where it says Prem1P is the same area where the root stock is listed on my other tags. Here are a couple other examples. The Chojuro is on OHxF 333 and the Black Tartarian Cherry is on Mahaleb Seedling (sorry that pic is not good)
I was trying to look up Prom1P before and not finding anything. When I looked up Prem1P it does show that to be the patent name for the Maxie pear. So it doesn’t look like the dwarfing rootstock is listed on that tag.
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@lhreeves
Interesting observation that they are using 333, im just now seeing this but reading up on it now. I suspect they did that strictly for faster fruit production. 333 does influence pears to fruit faster.
I will have some BET rootstock sent to me sometime next month and I guess since I will have both Euro and Asian pears then that is probably the best choice I could have made since I want them all to be very vigourous and healthy as can be… and also I had to buy 10 at a time and figured it would be more economical to get this one as well.
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@Poncho65
The downside is ofcourse the height but that is a positive in my area. They grow very quickly.
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I will try to keep them as low as I can with pruning. If I have to use a ladder in several years then I guess I will 
Summer pruning should help keep them smaller, yes? @clarkinks
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No but you can runt them out with certain scion wood eg. Harrow sweet , asian pears etc… Pears despise pruning as discussed here Reduced fruit set = heavy growth! and here Pear trees that produce bushels of fruit and avoid disease . Many do not agree with my pruning methods.
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I have Harrow Sweet, Korean Giant, Orient, Hood, Harrow Delight, and Moonglow. Hopefully some of these can help runt them out some then 
So only winter pruning then? @clarkinks
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3 of those Harrow Sweet, Korean Giant (one of the largest asians) Harrow Delight will reduce growth yes. Try bending branches instead of pruning it will help get them fruiting faster.
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I will try bending for sure I may also put 1 of those 3 varieties as a branch on all of them that I can and would it be good to use them later on after I get more wood as an interstem?
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The problem is korean giant as an example far out grows harrow sweet. The larger type shades out the other.
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I will try to keep all that in mind when I am deciding where to plant these
Just hoping I make correct choices and am able to manage all these trees 
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Fascinating concepts regarding plants https://growingfruit.org/t/the-intelligence-of-plants/24268/6. I have brought up these concepts many times Pear Rootstock influence on pears fruit size, tree growth, nutrition etc . This just means we have a great deal to learn. My concern is what substances does a pear tree contain and how do they use them? What effect do animals have on pear fruit? Why does nearly every animal have a tendency to leave my fruit alone but they pick on others mercilessly. Can they smell my rootstocks and recognize them as a wild native now or do my pears emmit a toxin for them? Callery and bet are my rootstocks of choice and i suspect my fruit is higher in nutrients due to how much deeper their roots go. I leave all windfalls for animals and they seem satisfied with those but they never pick fruit from my trees. By the way if the animals picked a pear i would not know anyway but if they picked 100 i would know.
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On OHxF333, one nursery site said that the supposed smaller fruit size was due to too much fruit set and without thinning the fruit size will be smaller.
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