Hi Clark,
Returning to the subject of pruning, I have taken some photos of some of my pear trees, which are probably the same age as yours, as you can see, the tree hardly has pacifiers, and vigor is controlled by pruning, and observe the production. Well just let me upload a photo.
If indeed the slightest suspicion of FB, the tree must be started and burn quickly.
I can see the tree is older and in production. How much does it produce a year? On a good year that standard in the above picture produces literally bushels in the same space. By the way I think you have a good looking tree there. Most people who are pruners want to shape that tree some more so I can see your growing for fruit not landscaping much like I do. Pruners take off those branches hanging close to the ground which is literally over pruning. I can see by that lateral branching that tree can put out some pears. Taller trees produce more fruit than shorter ones just because there is twice the tree. The fruit is also out of the deers reach. I have 100 ohxf333 trees so I do grow shorter trees but they won’t work at that location. I can see the benefit for spraying and picking but I suspect the production is not any higher than mine. The investment in time is a factor as well. Is it actually more efficient to plant ohxf333 or use ohxf97 and prune each year? Alan might say 333 lacks the vigor and some might say reduced fruit size which are perspectives but the other side is time in pruning and lost fruit due to vegetative growth.
@alan grows harrow sweet as mentioned. For those not growing that tree once you do you will see why he does. It’s like having a pear that is disease resistant and grows to produce fruit from day 1. This is the first year I grew it and it sent out half it’s branches horizontal. It will fruit within 3 years on callery. On 333 you might see fruit in the 2nd or 3rd year. It’s impressive so far in our climate.
Clark, I can probably grab in the month of November 150Kg of pears,. an average of 300g / Ud, The weight of pears makes the branches reach the ground, but in winter the podo, if I remember, I’ll upload another picture with pruning pear tree.
All varieties that I have, is grafted on franco pear and quince B-29, the nashis are on Pyrus betulaefolia.
I already told you, that deer were a big problem, and if you can not fence the garden, probably will not stay another solution, the tree to grow up.
Regarding the second question, I think so Allan, I like the sweet and large fruit, and to get the size should be accompanied by proper pruning.
I will try to raise another variety I hope the forum rules permits.
Beautiful tree and fruit. I wish I had the flexibility in what I could grow as those of you in cooler climate. That said, I’m not willing to trade muscadines for a better pear growing climate. LOL!
Bill,
This is a good document on proper branch bending http://learningstore.uwex.edu/Assets/pdfs/A1959.pdf . Not sure if you have saw this document but I found it interesting on weight placement.
Thanks
Weather will be the factor in fruit production this year and the warm weather we are having could be a problem. Most of my pears are covered with fruit buds.
This is a highly controversial post but as fireblight season quickly approaches it’s peak times I want to remind everyone to be careful how much you prune off pear trees. Fireblight attacks only growing tissue so the more rapidly growing tissue you have the more likely you are to get it. New trees just coming into flowering are much more likely to get it than older trees. If cicada attack your trees open wounds are present. If you prune your trees those branches are growing 3x faster than normal. To a disease that feeds off growth 3x faster growth gives it 3x as many chances to attack that tree. If you must prune cold weather is the best time when there is not fireblight to infect open wounds or to infect new growth.
Bringing this thread back. I know the saws are coming out soon so please remember trim your pears with love because if you try and force them they will pay you back with suckers this year.
I mostly just let mine grow , except for some scion wood collection.
Most of my pear trees grew very, very slowly (little) last year after a killing freeze hit after they had fully leafed out and some had as much as four inches of growth on them that was killed back. For my better trees, most of that new growth became scion wood this year. Hopefully we will get some vigorous growth this year, especially from the small trees. Here’s hoping.
Just a reminder to anyone new to the forum your pear fruit buds look like this so don’t trim them off if you want fruit.
Yep. I would prefer to grow fruits than scion wood. I will do much less dormant pruning this year than in previous years. I have a few areas on trees that I need to steer and some crossing branches but I’ll save most of my pruning for summer now.
Just a reminder to be careful while pruning your trees this year. I use a central leader on most of my trees & do minimal pruning to reduce vegetative growth. Light is more available in my opinion on a central leader. Some growers partially agree with some of my methods though many use different dwarfing rootstocks like in this video https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dtOuRo0utYs
Im already preparing the pear trees for 2019. They are looking healthy after a heavy 6 inch rain we got a week ago. So thankful for the moisture!
2019 crop is looking great!
@warmwxrules
Rob does your seckle mostly produce pears on the tips of the braches? Seckle is one of my favorite pears!
