So it really just comes down to experience… Trying them out and seeing what works and not in your specific location
Somewhat off topic . . . . We can move to another thread if necessary. . . .
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Do you think that susceptibility to SDS is a trait of the variety? If so, why do you think so? For example, have you lost more than one tree from a specific name?
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Is SDS one thing atttributable to a single pathogen? If so, what is the nature of transmission? I was under the impression that SDS infects the (tolerant) DV rootstock, so the pathogen is transmitted thorugh the graft. Is that wrong?
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Does an infected rootstock that is removed and destroyed leave behind the pathogen, e.g. a soil-borne fungus?
Thanks!
Edit: I saw your post (above) linking to the prior discussion. To my knowledge, SDS is not common here in the Northeast. There’s no population of wild DV trees except in a very few isolated places. But I lost a recently purchased tree last year, and i’m wondering whether I may have permanently introduced a pathogen than can now affect my other trees.
I guess i have to ask: For your trees that died, is there one source of rootstock or many? In my case, i have had no problem with rootstock purchased from Missouri or from trees purchased from Stark’s, England’s, JF&E, or Burnt Ridge. My one fatality was purchased from OGW.
Well, i didn’t mean that exactly. What I meant is that depending on where you live (and Z8 is better than Z7 or Z6), you may go years or even decades without experiencing the conditions that cause death.
In your location, i think you’ll be fine so long as you don’t experience sub-zero temps and especially if you don’t experience sub-zero preceded by warmth.
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Thank you.
If that’s ever in the forecast, I will try to protect them as much as I can.
I’m still going to try to grow my x3 Maekawa Jiro, x1 Jiro, x1 Fuyu, and x1 Saijo here in 8b East Texas, as I want spray free fruit for my children…
It’s well worth the risk
Totally agree. FWIW, I’m in Z7A (borderline 6B). I’ve lived here 13 years. Lowest temps were -7 F once, -5 F twice, -2 to -3 F a half dozen times. During the worst of it, I nearly lost three IKKJ. Undaunted, within the past three years i’ve planted the Kaki varieties Saijo, Sheng, Giboshi in the ground. I think Saijo may be killed by cold sooner or later but I have high hopes for the other two. The operative word is “hopes.”
That’s not counting a bunch of hybrids and Americans. I’m not 100% sure of the hardiness of all the hybrids. Kasandra and JT-02 are in the ground; Nikita’s Gift and Dar Sofiyievki are in pots, at least for now.
I’ve also recently put six other Kaki varieties in pots. At best, it could be a separate success. At worst, it’s a backup plan.
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That’s awesome to hear.
My backup plan is to graft hardier varieties of Kaki or Hybrids if mine die, using the rootstock (DV). God willing that never has to happen!
Another question… is IKKJ significantly hardier than Maekawa Jiro? Edible Landscaping wording seems to suggest that they consider MJ cold hardier than IKKJ. They are both listed as zone 6 by many nurseries (which they are not in extreme winters), along with the standard Jiro.
Pedro
I am not sure what the low was this year as I have been out of town, but I think it was -2. I don’t believe it got below zero since I planted it. But it has had a few years of milder winters to size up so I’m hoping it survived. It has yet to fruit for me but by the leaves it’s definitely full kaki.
For your zone, you’ve been lucky – the “average” winter should see 0 to -5 F. And then there can be deviations lower. I’m borderline 7A/6B, and I didn’t have any material damage until two nights in 2023 that hit -5 F and -7 F. All the wood less than 3 years old on three IKKJ died. I was lucky that buds eventually popped from the older wood.
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IDK. I grow IKKJ but not MJ.
I can tell you pretty reliably that a dormant IKKJ is OK at 0 to -3 F but suffers severe damage at -5 F and below.
IKKJ also has the beneficial trait of breaking dormancy a little more slowly than other Kakis. That helps it avoid damage from late frosts.
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That (slow wake up) is why I chose IKKJ for my 7a over other Asians. I will report back in future winters how it does.
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Interesting. I may try one if I can snatch it cheap… And then compare bud times!
I have 3 Maekawa Jiro, will also be interesting to track when they break dormancy.
I had 2 weeks of warm weather and none of my Kakis fully broke dormancy, they didn’t have green in their buds… I think that’s good news for their long term survival.
Pedro
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