Planning a fruit and nut bearing hedge

They definitely harbor black knot. That can be a major problem if you want to grow plums. I’m not sure about peaches and cherries. I haven’t seen it on my (one) apricot nor on my (one) bush cherry.

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I noticed you eliminated Autumn Olive. Russian Olive is a terrible plant (especially here in Mi) but AO is better. Would you consider a relative, though? Goumi is a wonderful hedge plant for me. I’ve coppiced it down a few times and it has done wonderfully regrowing within a season or so. I’ve had a couple in my yard (with plenty of pollinators, AO, silverberry) and i’ve never had any seedlings from it (except for those I’ve planted myself).

I’d also consider currants. Cultural practices for these require that you cut out older stems periodically anyway and the fruit is a bonus.

Though they are not terribly sturdy plants, Rose of Sharon take to coppicing well. I cut mine down to about 6-10 inches and they respond by pushing 4-8 new stems a year, all of which bloom.

Another plant to consider is Siberian Pea shrub. These can be weedy (my ex-mother in law had a contorted one that seemed to reseed itself with abandon (though the seedlings were 10 to 1 non-contorted) while mine is far less prolific. These produce a seed which while edible it far better suited for wildlife.

I’m on the east side of the state, btw…

Scott

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hazelnuts, elderberry and aronia are other good ones. aronia and elderberry are very easy to spread from cuttings and hazels spread like mad into a thicket once cut. in your zone you could just buy some hazel nuts from the store and stick them in the ground in fall. if the squirrels dont find them many should sprout.

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Hi I found this not even looking
The link might not work, so I will explain how I found it
I was On the home page of pfaf .org (plants for a future database)
I saw a Carbon farming link, So I clicked on it, and coppicing was listed at end of page.

Search Use (pfaf.org)

(at end of this this page on the link below since sometimes the direct links do not work)

The Carbon Farming Solution (pfaf.org)

I know you said you do not like Osage orange like I said if you do decide to kill the fruit baring Females the male tree’s could be kept it is valuable wood the hottest burning, and used to make Bows it is not Native to the area , but native to Texas , Louisiana Florida, Alabama .

I have heard that it could even burn so hot to melt a wood burning stove at least I heard that " ON the Internet" maybe good to burn with other woodopt200x148o0%2C0s200x148

osageclass

23321-438x

That Guitar was a Osage orange Guitar but uploaded by accident.

See Link
Edit sorry that small picture does not do that bench Justice
I thought on Growing fruit you could make pictures larger after clicking on them
You can see the wood is stained,
and wood worked by worms etching/deteriorate it to look that way but the bench seat looks good, and a durable useful wood.
Osage Orange Bench - The Wood Whisperer

Edit speaking of strong Bow wood would you Include YEW tree’s into your Hedge I know Honey Locust (in pea family nitrogen fixer)
is strong as well, they can spread if goes to seed I hear a lot about…

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black locusts have many of the same attributes as osage, except it grows much straiter, has flowers bees love, wood is very rot resistant, animals love the seeds and it also has very high btu ratings. coppices very well and fixes nitrogen.

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Given the magnificent mess I have to deal with in the ROs, I’m somewhat reluctant to plant anything related.

I would very much like some currants, although they will likely get their own spot. However, I’m in one of those pesky “restricted” counties, and have to wrangle with the MI Dept of Ag over which varieties I may plant.

So much of the property still needs significant clearing, I’m reluctant to add in anything that might add to my troubles. I’ve already got the ROs, honeysuckle, blackcaps, and wild roses, among other things I’ve yet to identify. I may even need to rent some goats!

Black locust seems somewhat more possible than osage orange. I wonder, though if I would need to worry at all about wood that burns TOO hot for that tile stove.

Ginda, the black knot advice is exactly the sort of tips I’m looking for, thank you!

Black Locust is awesome burning wood. Not only hot but will outlast oak. I don’t know anything about your wood stove? I have a modern chambered high efficiency wood stove. If you can control air flow it should not be an issue.
I have two hedges. One is with the Iranian dogwood cornus mas. A very hard wood. Used for spears and arrows. Now tool handles. The wood is so dense it sinks in water. This tree if headed will keep low branches if seedlings are used. The berries make a fantastic syrup. Great with vodka and tonic. It’s main function Is as a hedge. The berries are a bonus. I also have a hazelnut hedge for nut production. So hybrids were used. The deer left the dogwoods but constantly attack the filberts. The dogwoods are very slow growing.
No matter what you plant expect volunteers. The birds spread my currants all over the woods near me.

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Neat project, I’m just a couple years ahead as I installed a 250’ roadside planting which I intend to eventually be a deer barrier. I used mostly native species with a preference for those that offer some sort of utility in terms of possible food, livestock fodder, pollinator forage. Look to state nurseries as sources for inexpensive bulk liner grade stock, Missouri is a good one.
Some of the species I used here in my zone 4b Maine location include cornelian cherry, hybrid Hazelberts, hybrid chestnut, Cockspur Hawthorne, highbush cranberry, Linden, beech, black locust, juneberry.

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Is that due to the diseases which spread to white pine? If so there are a couple disease resistant cultivars available. This nursery has a decent selection with very candid descriptions of the cultivars they sell (I have not purchased from them but would just based on their sense of humor) Currants | Whitman Farms

I don’t know if they would be tolerant or not. Some cultivars have been described as more tolerant to pruning than others. Susquehanna is in that category. If I was working on a project like yours I’d consider KSU Chapell and Mango cultivars as both are fast growing and you need two cultivars for pollination. I will also mention the majority of growth in the first 2-3 years is in the roots for most cultivars. As they are naturally understory trees you could definitely plant them amongst your walnut grove as well as including them in your fence. I think the main positive for your objective is the tolerance to juglone. Cornell University has pawpaws planted amongst their walnut forest.

This site lists a few species that have already been discussed above as good options near walnut trees (serviceberry, viburnum, currant) 30 Plants That Will Grow Near Black Walnut Trees, in Zone 3 | Joybilee® Farm | DIY | Herbs | Gardening |

I’m uncertain if service berry tolerates black walnut. Have had a couple “Autumn Brilliance” variety die. But drought rather than juglone could have been the issue…big walnuts consume most of the water.

Several reference sources say they do tolerate juglone. So far I’ve not tried currants, but may likely do so in the future.

Have you considered any of the various wild plums or witch hazel? Do you need to be concerned with hordes of hungry deer. Here in NJ they seem to be everywhere.

The only disadvantage the black locust has is that it sends lots of suckers, especially so when pollarded/coppiced.

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Depending on where they come out, couldn’t that help to thicken a hedge?

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thats what i figured. just mow or till up the ones that come up in unwanted spots.

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Oops I didn’t get to finish my post like I wanted to

I meant to say there are more links listed on the carbon farming solution link, but as far as Pfaf goes on the home page you can select a box, as in hedge shelter bed (wind break) Charcoal basketry wood etc.

I also re read about coppicing on that link fell asleep through it , but I understand more again I will look into the links posted (by Hillbilly), and look into some of those people if I get a chance to.

Just posting quickly but I will look into Jim Jones Hedge thing you posted about

Also I know what you mean by Not wanting to plant anything related to Russian Olive, but some species can act very different
Sea berry might not be as bad Could always ask for seeds throw them around, and if they grow like crazy kill off right away.

I re read your post, but posting quickly as out of town
I see short rotation crops any use for that
I saw on link (i posted and read so far), but asking because what would be the use for you
like I imagine Honey locust sends multiple shoots up, but could be thinned and they could be weaved into baskets, and the other ones later harvested into canes just a Idea .

Me personally I like the idea of white Oak, as can be used as wine Barrels the staves do not need to be full grown tree’s you can grow native white oak, or french oak (should be in the climate, but not sure of disease) for different flavors , and also others off the top of my head Hungarian oak.

I know buckthorn is in the Rhamnus genus Rhamnaceae family
when I posted (the IL wild flower link I didn’t see it)
I knew there was a Native Rhamnus (or in the family) around the midwest.

there is this one Rhamnus alnifolia (see link after post)

Also not Native but raisin tree is related , and in the Rhamnus family as well as Ceanothus Americanus (new Jersey tea) Indian cherry (frangula Caroliniana genus) to zone 5, but not sure of taste on that one or the others, but heard of new Jersey tea before, and Raisin tree (some reveiws online(.

Not so much for hedges but As far as being in the city or town like I AM i AlWays think poke berries make a hedge for a year Nurseries should promote it.

Random link, but I read his site before looks good

seaberry needs 8 hs of bright sunshine. any shade will kill them. keep that in mind if you use them.

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Sorry for the temporary absence. I got a new laptop for Christmas, and it’s taken me this long to get everything up and running, reloaded, and logged back into everything. Technology can be a pain.

So,
Seaberry is out, native buckthorn looks like a good idea, blackthorn is definitely on the list. Suckering is desired in a laid hedge situation. I also got my very own bilhook for Christmas, so I should be able to keep on top of stray suckers. :slight_smile:

Francis Eric, thank you. Jim Jones is a favorite of mine. I was disappointed that the workshop he was planning last Spring in Northern Michigan was canceled for the usual reason in 2020. I’m hoping for a reschedule. In fact, if I can get this hedge planted and grown up somewhat, I’m rather hoping to invite him to do a workshop ON It.

Today’s distraction is Swedish round pole fencing. I’m about 15 years behind the power curve to make this really go, locally. Back in the 90’s, everybody planted Christmas trees in order to cash in on the high prices. Which, naturally, drove the prices way down. So the immediate area is spotted with young pine forests that weren’t even worth the expense of cutting down. Unfortunately, the trees are past the point of being useful for this project, or I might have gotten it done on the serious cheap.

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My Irish husband calls it “pleaching” when you cut branches half in two and lay them over sideways. I read about a way to lay a straight hedge, you make a rope with a lot of seeds in it, stretch it tight, peg it down and bury it. Yeah there’s a lot of hawthorn in the English hedges, but trees in general. Apparently hedges used to be like long skinny forests. Here they’d wind up full of red cedar, but everything winds up full of red cedar here, especially fence rows. I certainly like the idea of hazels, which would sure lend themselves to pleaching, and black locust. For something quick, see Double A Vineyards biomass willows. Year 2 you can fill in with switches cut from your year 1 order. And I guess there’s hybrid poplars. I think that your hedge would edge toward mostly native species over time, even if you bought the biomass stuff to start with.

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I wouldn’t incorporate any ash into your system. With the emerald ash borer spreading, their days would be numbered. Its arrived here in the past few years and is laying waste to the local population :confused:. Maybe consider replacing with mulberry, I understand that is fairly nutritious for fodder. Hazlenuts is a good candidate too. Black locust grows thorns, so that might be an effective fence, especially if coppiced. The wood burns hot, makes excellent fence posts. While growing it facilitates nitrogen fixation and bees love the flowers. It blooms later than most fruit trees here in NY 5b.

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