Jag, I pretty much agree with you- I just like fleshing things out in full. I’ve seen large trees moved in mid summer by balling up enough soil to make a small swimming pool.
Here I can hire people to do the back breaking work so I measure cost of labor to cost of machinery and often labor wins out.
Are the 90" spades the ones carried by heavy trucks? I’ve never seen one of those in use.
I’m confused Alan. Are you selling these trees? I thought you mentioned some orchard selling them. So what caliper do you typically get on a 4 year old tree on M111? Now of course when I say 4 year old, I’m speaking beyond bare root, so then I’d guess a 6 year tree assuming the bare root was harvested for sale in it’s second year, maybe third year for larger calipers.
What about M106 or some other stock, is there significant caliper difference in semi-dwarf rootstocks of comparable ages? Seems like 106 develops a beefier trunk more quickly than even seedling stock. Seems like seedling stock tends on it’s own to want to go vertical while 106 stays fatter/shorter or squattier (if that’s even a word…lol). Does that sound accurate?
I don’t have anything on 111, but not for any particular reason, knowing what little I do on the subject of rootstocks I’d probably prefer everything on 111 or definitely 106 because I really like it’s growth habit.
Adams says M7 is the most widely planted rootstock to date, yet it seems to me like it’s less frequently utilized now. At least I rarely read about it. M7 is what I think I’ll choose in the future just because my time here is becoming increasingly limited and it seems to have all the characteristics I’m looking for.
The reason I mention the rootstocks in regards to your mentioning of caliper sizes is because caliper is where it’s at for me. I like the fat well anchored trees.
Yes. The truck mounted ones come 90-110" maybe even bigger? Very expensive, I’ve heard of a 110" truck that charges $750 per hour from his doorstep back home.
It must be really nice to have more money than you know what to do with it:-)
I’m of a similar opinion. However, I’m also interested in ‘epigenetics’…sort of how the things you do/encounter now can affect your kids, grandkids, etc. I’ve met a lot of folks who are not so much alarmist about a certain chemical but more so wary about many agriculture chemicals from various sources.
Alan, I’ve been in the landscaping biz a few years…I bet you and I could write a book on our experiences.
If one has extra money, the obvious solution is to plant more fruit trees…or purchase land to plant more trees.
The ones from a commercial orchard are probably about 8" diameter trees the ones from my nursery usually about 2.5"
111 seems as vigorous as 106 but can take longer to bear. I use 111 because it can function is soil with relatively poor drainage- it is also more available with the varieties I order. I prefer 106 in soil with good drainage but 111 is a real survivor.