Planting Rodent Repellant Plants

zinc phosphate and difenacoum are the two poisons i am considering using. I read a post in this forum that zonc phosphate is pretty good for low risk of secondary poisoning, what are people thoughts on difenacoum?


and when does a rodent of any kind die above ground? ive never seen or heard of it. if they die above ground its usually from a attack of some sort. they usually high tail it to its burrow underground or under a building and die there. all of the poisonings ive heard of are people being stupid and not putting the bait out in a safe manner causing primary poisonings.


I haven’t used either one and I am not an expert here; I know what has worked for me and why I used them (same logic as @Lonster)

“Secondary poisoning risks to predators and scavengers from zinc phosphide exposure are low especially when compared to other rodenticides”

If the goal is to minimize off target mortality, both seem better than other rodenticides. both seem effective.

what is different with zinc phosphide is the risk to humans - “low” when the risk from diphacinone is essentially zero for me. The USDA document cited 25 people are known to have died from zinc phosphine exposure.

and there are “sub-lethal” tissue damaging effects

It seems like zinc phosphide has more risk to the people applying it than to non-target animals. It breaks down slowly into phosphine gas even when it is dry (and breaks down much faster when wet) and you can breathe it in or have dermal contact while applying it.

Be careful where it is stored (it breaks down slowly into phosphine gas) and when handling it (respirator and thick gloves, etc). there are also “sub-lethal” effects from exposure (i.e., it can cause tissue damage in small amounts but not kill.) There is no treatment for exposure.

diphacinone doesn’t have the same risk to me when I handle it. And, if by chance, there is massive exposure, I have several days (3-5) of clotting factors before any bleeding problems and Vit K is an immediate treatment (and cure)

it is always a cost benefit analysis


Nobody mentioned one of the most effective rodent repellent plants yet. Castor bean plants are reasonably effective repelling moles. Come to think of it, simple chemistry should permit concentration of ricin from the beans. Making a rat/mouse bait should be very easy.


I dont know if Mouse city was here first or if the 200 year old farm was here first, but i will go to war this winter with these mice… I think.
I also debate what might come as a result… I am failry certain these are all field mice. they livei n a large colony and make no mounds ( even though these areas are so populated it look like mounds, but it is not). I wonder if i reduce their population if voles will move in… currently there are no voles or moles for maybe 150 feet or more in most directions which is pretty cool… but i think i’ll just try to… kill them all… and see how that goes… I am going to be using zinc phosphate treated wheat seeds.

This is a small hazelnut orchard and uphill are pears.


that’s pretty bad. i just put out a bunch of bait stations up at the orchard for the voles. war has been declared! let the carnage begin!


Those holes certainly look like vole holes. Voles don’t kick up mounds of dirt they just make holes which lead to tunnels that aren’t as raised as moles. Meadow Voles are above ground but Pine Voles, and their other subterranean variants in the west, are below ground root munchers. If that ground around your orchard/grove feels spongy that is another sign you are dealing with voles and not mice.