Plum variety recommendation for Zone 7?


@scottfsmith … and others…

Walked by my Rosy Guage today and noticed this black coloration on a small spur of growth on one of its limbs.

I have rosy guage and mt royal in a 2 in one planting about 24 inches apart.

No other black spots on either.

Does that look like black knot or the early stages of it to you ?

I cut it off… it was on a limb that is growing towards my mt royal… which I may have to remove eventually.

Yes… I said no black knot on my rosy guage just this week then found this. Jinxed…

Yup that is it. Going forward I would keep your eyes peeled on that tree for knots, also make sure to prune it nice and open… knots love shade.

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Imperial Epineuse is by far my favorite! My 30-yr-old tree no problems other than aphids in dry years. A meaty prune plum that’s freestone with a complex sweet-tart flavor and that’s addictive. Hold their shape in upside down cakes. Great for drying.

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Glad to hear it!

@TNHunter @Amazindirt I have an extremely early Asian plum that always makes it through frosts. Always!! It’s called Bruce and people think it’s mediocre, but I only found out one overcast year why.

In good sun (and maybe some warmth?) it is really good! Rich, with spice and tropical fruit flavors. It’s very juicy. Without sun, it’s pretty bland and tasteless. I don’t thin Bruce at all, btw.

No blackknot, a little brown rot without spraying if you don’t thin. Curculio is a big problem.

I’d love to trade scions for other plums. I do have tons of Bruce wood if it sounds like something anyone needs! But lots of sun only, really, lol.

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I have as much experience as Scott with a range of plums and have different opinions than him on probably half the statements he makes on the subject- not that I’m more often right, but that we have different experiences at different sites and different tastes. He also grows his fruit far to the south of my southern NY.

I do have the advantage of basing my opinions on growing fruit at many different sites in my region, and plums are the most mysterious fruit I grow in terms of productivity by any given variety. At some sites, Santa Rosa is quite productive, for example. I have found several other varieties whose level of productivity seems to swing a great deal, apparently due to subtle condition variations at different sites. The fact that I have no idea what these factors are is not a testament to my expertise, I will admit. Only my own orchard gets close enough attention to the fine details, and when certain plum varieties fail to produce on a given year, the problem usually seems to be early blooming that causes either freeze out or inadequate attention from pollinators. USUALLY!

As far as Damson’s making the best jam, that is highly subjective even if it may be commonly believed in France. Alone it makes an exceptional jam due, in part, to its high astringency. However, most will only observe its superiority if you taste it by itself side by side with jam made by another E. variety. My opinion is that Damson isn’t worth the trouble- the fruit is too small and pit too large to bother with and it requires more sugar than most other plums to get its jam sweet. Even when dead ripe, Damson it barely pleasurable to eat unsweetened, but it is those flavors that mask its sugar that makes it exceptional- but they require a lot of added sugar to be enjoyed by my particular palate.

This year I discovered that Ruby Queen imparts the most amazing color to preserves as one of the plums in the mix. I’ve long considered Euro plums better for this purpose, if only for their higher brix, but if about a quarter of the plums in the mix are RQ, the color will end up being amazing in a way no amber fleshed plum can be compared to, and RQ has the deepest purple flesh of any red-flesh I’ve ever grown, which includes Red Heart, Elephant Heart, Methely and Satsuma, along with a few pluots.

Incidentally, I believe Ozark Premier is underrated. It has a meatiness to it that is outstanding and the fruit gets huge.

As far as Scott having forgotten more about plums than you know, I have forgotten more about plums than I know.

One of my favorite jokes about my aging brain… like it?

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I agree with all that and it was helpful. But the one thing I really wanted to yell “YES!” is when you said Ozark premeire is under rated. It is one of my very favorite plums I grow- and I grow about 15 varieties. Yet I rarely see it mentioned anywhere. I have one at my house and planted one where I work and they both are good producing, great tasting. Mine don’t get as large as it sounds like yours do- just a little larger than my average plum. But boy are they good! I even prefer them to several of my pluots, and that is saying something.

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@Alan… when I read Scott’s opinions on those… I ran that thru my (his experience in his location) filter.

I have seen too many people on YouTube really bragging on and showing off that Santa rosa fruit… to know for sure it does well in some locations.

It is sort of like nursery catalog descriptions… they make everything sound great… and I expect that in the right location… those descriptions are true.

If only they were specific to my zone 7a TN location… that is what I need… what we all need.

That is one of the big benefits of us all being able to share here… better information specific to us.

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Region matters a lot, but what really amazes and sometimes baffles me is how differently varieties can perform on sites seemingly not much different and only a few miles apart- or even on the same property and soil. I had an Elephant Heart tree that bore consistently every year under a surprising amount of shade from forest trees to its south and east. The plums were small for the variety but still managed to get up high sugar. When it died and I replaced it in a much sunnier location it took much longer to start bearing and didn’t do so with the same consistency. Only as I write this do I realize that it was probably because the shade delayed its flowering (experience sharpens diagnostic tools).

Unfortunately, recent, much wetter springs have made it nearly impossible to grow plums in areas with eastern shade in my region- too much black knot. That said, if someone built a frame to hold a tarp just to create shade to be removed at first growth, I bet it could delay flowering for at least a week. The season before last a late freeze eliminated almost all stone-fruit and pears, but in shadier parts of my nursery peach trees bore fruit.

Hey All… back on the subject of Plums for Zone 7… I am planning to plant 2 this spring… finally pulling the trigger on trying J-Plums again.

I found something last weekend… that I think has helped me decide on which two to plant.
It is a Plum Variety / pollination / ripening chart from Vaughn Nursery (which is in TN) my State.

I had sort of made up my mind that I want to try Shiro… many have mentioned that it seems to set fruit despite late frost which is one of my big concerns. I have been encouraged by Scotts (and other) reports of it.

But I also wanted to try some of the AU Plums… since they are known to do well in the South East… again my location.

Scott also gave a good report of AU Producer… and per this TN Nursery pollination chart AU Producer is a +2 and Shiro is a -2 on Bloom Date (compared to Santa Rosa).

I think this is the first pollination chart I have seen on Plums, that list the AU varieties along with others like Shiro.

They say Shiro ripens 6/5 in TN, and AU producer 6/20 and their bloom dates are close enough, surly they will pollinate ok.

I can always graft other varieties on to increase pollination.

So there you go… what TNHunter is doing for Plums this year a combo of Shiro and AU Producer… Hope it works out.

Thought this pollination or Plum Variety chart might be helpful to some of you others considering Plums for the TN area.

TNHunter

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Thanks for posting Trev, bloom chart is helpful! I keep one updated for my plum varieties each spring so I can pick my next grafting candidates. This spring I am grafting one AU variety:
Auburn University cherry, and Odom Chickasaw, and Guthrie Chickasaw.
The AU crosses all look interesting to me to add to my native collection, so I appreciate the source information.
I could send you some cherry plum scions if you want to add ones that have a very early but long blossom bouquet! Let me know if you want them as buds here are beginning to awaken!
Dennis
Kent, wa

if you haven’t seen it here’s an extension list of stuff for tennessee:

the plums section is only “Major problems encountered will be crop loss due to spring frosts and black knot control” and varieties “bruce, methley, ozark premier, stanley”. but my gut feeling is your picks should work

Thanks @z0r … i have seen those recommendations a few times over the years… looks like they have updated it some since i last checked…

But still most varieties listed are somewhat old.

No mention at all of the AU varrieties of plums.

In 5 or 10 more years they may include those.

@DennisD … thanks for the offer of cherry plum scions.

I do not have any jplums growing here now… but plan to add shiro and au producer this spring.

I might consider grafting on some cherry plum scions next spring. Our local walmart has those occasionally and even the walmart cherry plums are so good. I am sure a home grown and tree ripened fruit would be much better.

I do want some of those…

Think i will get 2 jplums going this year and may add some cherry plum next year via graft.

AU has a cherry plum… and i noticed Auburn posted some pictures of it… also noticed his tree has had a little black knot.

One of my eu plums… rosy guage has had a little black knot the past two seasons… i may have to seek out varieties that are known to be resistent.

Thanks

Thats a nice chart! What it shows to me is all J plums will overlap in bloom … they stay in bloom for a week or more so pretty much any one will overlap with any other. That is also what I have noticed in my orchard.

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Trev,
I actually have two types of Cherry plum, the native one that grew as a roadside volunteer produces fruits that are shown in the pic below.


The other is called Kuban Comet and today I found the below website in English that gives a good description of its origin and breeding. My grafts haves had two growing seasons to mature, so I am hoping they fruit this year. So I could easily give you scions of each. My friend who is from Ukraine gave me my scions to graft. He says his tree is very prolific as described in this website
Dennis

https://en.delachieve.com/the-kuban-comet-cherry-plum-reviews-description-and-care/

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@DennisD … those are beautiful.

I read that link… once i get my two jplums thru the first season… i would love to add some cherry plums scions from you.

I want to add a graft or two of spring satin plumcot too.

PS… i found this AU Rosa at TSC this morning and bougt it. I have a Shiro ordered… so I will be starting off with a combo of Shiro and AU Rosa.

Our TSC just got these in… they had two AU Rosa and both looked pretty good… but this was my pick.


I was impressed … nice size good starting shape.
A little pruning and I think it will be a fine tree.

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At my first CRFG scion exchange,there was a jar of Kuban Comet jam for sampling.Some of the best I’ve had.
Oblinaya is another,that might have been developed by the same person and to me,is a little better for fresh eating.

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I do like that joke.

I have both Shiro and AU-Rosa, but only Shiro has finished fruit. Shiro is a few years older. Shiro is worth having just as an ornamental. I am hoping to get fruit from AU-Rosa this year, but buds are swelling early on some of my stone fruits.

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