true enough…but then that would be fussing 
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plus if i stick 30 or 40 plants at a time and get 10 or 15 that take…i now have to find a spot for 10 or 15 plants…so my rate of success is OK…
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Your method seems pretty similar to mine…I’m not concerned if every cutting is a success…If I put little to no effort other than sticking the cuttings…10 or 30 or 50 percent is fine by me. (And if I get 100% like I did sticking Germander cuttings…I smile. 
I also like to use the shady side of buildings, trees, etc to give better survival amidst neglect.
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((I don’t have to root any Aurora…package arrived safe. Thanks!))
Excellent, glad to hear it!!
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Good to know…I’ve never cut that much back because of how slow they are to establish making little growth the first year, and not a lot the second year, so I’ve never taken much for that reason , but I had wondered if it might renew the plant to cut it right back…now I know it’s not a good idea…I wonder if it would be any different if done just before it goes dormant ?
Yeah its hard to know, Id say when its dormant would be the best time for severe pruning, not sure if there would still be a chance for the plant to fail then or not… I just know during the growing season they dont handle it very well!
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Yeah I think theoretically mid season should be the worst time to do that…I’m trying to get rid of a whole lot of sumac…and the time I’ve settled on as most damaging is mid season, done in spring , it’s almost an invitation to grow more shoots…done in fall, well it’s probably stored most ( not all) of its energy back in the roots by then…as for getting rid of sumac , i will have to cut repeatedly, but I think mid season would be most damaging. I have been pulling it , but that’s a lot of pulling and quite tiring.
Do haskaps sucker?
I’m wondering, if there are more plants growing that what I planted, are they likely suckers or seedlings? I haven’t bothered even superficial investigation yet.
Not sure I can find a copy of the rather exhaustive non-propagation agreement Dr. Maxine Thompson used when selling early crosses. Does anybody else have a copy of one?
I know at least one of these was later released with a name.
Mine have never suckered after a dozen years. The bushes got wider, so I chopped a few in half when transplanting them. I also weighed down some long branches with rocks, which grew roots for a new bush or two.
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It seems ‘sucker’ is not the right description. The clump expands like blueberries. You potentially could divide…or mound and make lots of cuttings in a ‘stooling’ fashion.
The new growth is further from the clump than any of the individuals in the clump are from each other.
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You just explained exactly what I do as well, except I had almost 100% success, if not 100%.
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I can imagine you could separate such a limb and some roots. Ya reckon?
Almost certainly, my question is can we say, by deduction, whether it is a root sucker or a seedling?
Aside from the question about specifics of the non propagation agreement.
I understand that there is no risk of enforcement.
No, I’d not be able to say based on the information I have. But, if it’s attached to the root ball/mass, I’d call it part of the original plant. If the plant is older and there’s a possibility of a husky seedling, eventually it should fruit and possibly you could notice some difference, or it might be enough like the mother plant to not be distinguishable.
Does one call a shoot a foot or more distant from a blueberry plant a ‘sucker’. I don’t think I ever have. But, it certainly could be carefully separated from the parent and planted in a different spot.
Or, a currant bush. It starts as one shoot or cane, but in time my become a dozen canes.
If one of them is a foot from the clump, do I call it a sucker, but not the other 11 canes?
Maybe consult some horticultural professor or reference for a technical clarification. Or an Etymologist.
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I don’t know what you call it. It’s at such a distance from the others that it isn’t just getting wider like rhubarb. It’s in the aisle between rows. If I separated it, I wouldn’t think of it as a division.
Like I said, I haven’t investigated, even superficially. It may be obvious if I rake back the mulch and/or give it a tug.
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Could it be from a seed from a bird eating it or from the fruit dropping to the ground and sprouting? I’ve seen that before at a honeyberry orchard.
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Yes, I imagine so. Both of those things happen plenty.
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Refreshing my memory on the ins and outs of Honeyberry propagation. Let me see if I’m getting the jist of it, and insert corrections as needed. The general drift seems to be that propagating is most successful with softwood or semihardwood cuttings. And therefore it works best during the growing season.
Honeyberries also require another variety for pollination, and therefore also aren’t likely to grow true from seed.
Hence - trading varieties around is going to be somewhat harder than with things like apples and stone fruit, because dormant wood is less likely to root. Although there is the potential for interesting new varieties from seeds, if one has some patience and is willing to deal with the unknown.
Do I have that about right?
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