Hopefully it stops at 89 this summer! 
Are you suggesting 90 is necessary? (84 or 85 is probably the highest in the 10-day and so far 89 is our high).
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They lose their leaves around 90Ā°F. If youāve got 5 or more weeks until 90+ then I would recommend air layering.
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I would save the pruning for the late fall when they go dormant. At that point just stick the cuttings in good soil and forget about them until the spring.
Green cuttings need a whole lot more attention and care, and at the end a pencil thick lignified cutting planted in the fall will outperform a thinner green cutting planted now.
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Agree. At least thatās whatās worked for me the last few years.
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Yep, since Iāve grown at least one or two for a decade, Iāve learned a little.
But, I have had poor results at various propagation attempts.
I do know some liner growers do have excellent results using softwood summer cuttings.
Anyhow, thanks to all for sharing things that have been successful for you.
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Iām sure they do, most likely because they are sticking then in their mist beds or aeroponic setups, then storing them for the winter on their dedicated bareroot facilities. For the rest of us fall cuttings (or late winter for that matter) works best with a minimal of fuzz.
If you want to increase your success rate with a minimal of fuzz get a heat mat.
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I got one out of about 50 late winterā¦ouch. So, iāll stick to currants for late winterā¦and maybe cranberry viburnum or forsythia.
With bottom heat of the 12 cuttings that where looking the best so far 11 of took and seem to be thriving.
Mind you, I did not keep track of how well the second and third tier of cuttings did (diminishing degrees of rotting). I potted those on a communal bed and while Iāll be getting about twenty more haskaps out of those there was a much higher attrition rate. For certain bottom heat to stimulate rotting before foliage had a huge impact.
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Did you attempt to propagate them indoors or out? Sticking these in an outside raised bed with loose soil (dedicated to propagation) gave me the same result as sticking current or willow. No fail.
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youāre speaking to spring/late winter dormant cuttings?? amazing
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Yes. I was going to try some summer cuttings, but I guess I donāt have time, plus, Ifā itās not brokenā¦
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Hello from Finland, sorry bad English.
I made an 80x120cm pool for the terrace.
The pool has an aquarium heater, air stone, 2 Ultrasonic humidifiers. These are controlled by a controller.
What would be good humidity%
Picture
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Every plant family responds better or worse to different propagation techniques. Heck even varieties within a species will respond differently. When it comes to haskaps the big thing is that these plants has two grow spurs a year, early spring and in the fall.
These are from 2021 summer green cuttings, high failure rate overwintering. As of this morning around 4" tall and finally getting strong enough that they should put good growth (on the second grow spur this year) and make it fine through the next winter:
On the other hand this is from 2021 March rooted hardwood. 20" tall now; the fact that the bigger hardwood had more energy stored meant that it put to great use the two grow spurs last spring and in the fall. They also have high survival rates overwintering because of it:
Here are my 2022 winter cuttings. Note how the energy from a larger hardwood cutting gave them the hump to start strong, with minimal babysitting. Also note that they will have another grow spur in the fall:
The good news is that if you donāt do summer cuttings now and wait until next early spring hardwood cuttings, by next summer youāll end up with a better plant and higher success rate overwintering, than if you did them now. The thing is: you can either try to root a bunch and get a half decent rooting rate, or you can invest on a cheap heat pad and bump your rooting rate by a lot.
Hereās another example of a better reproduction technique for a different species, romeo cherry bush. Softwood cuttings have a huge failure rate, and thatās with you baby sitting them a lot. These are root cuttings from a month ago. Minimal fuss (water, really) and look at the lush strong growth:
These should overwinter beautifully.
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Romeo cherries must be on their own roots?
I thank you for the info. Iāve had a honeyberry plant or two for a decade, but Iāve increased the numbers lately. A young plant that has one shoot and two feet of new growth on that one shoot??? Iād like to prune before dormancy. And hate to throw the prunings on the compost or burn pile.
But, as FarmGirl suggested , fall sticking of dormant cuttings did the trick for her.
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The entire romance series and related bush cherries are grown on their own roots, I have never seen them grafted.
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@FarmGirl-Z6A Would you say that itās important to stick the dormant cuttings in the ground late fall or would it work just as well early spring as soon as the ground thaws deep enough? Iām guessing when you say late fall, you mean late enough in the year that roots arenāt starting until the following spring? Iām just wondering because it can get dry here in the winter especially this past one and I would forget to water at some point, plus thatās a pain when itās below freezing most days.
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Late fall after they go dormant or early spring before they wake. You donāt need to water, they will take care of themselves, at least thatās been my experience.
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Unlike dirt in pots, the soil in the ground actually holds a good amount of moisture, it should not be necessary to do much. Any snow cover eventually melts and provides water. You donāt have to worry about watering until the spring.
Do keep in mind that haskaps root action wakes up super early, so do make a point of watering in the early spring. Last year I moved a large haskap (tundra) that was already fully leafed out; over half of the roots were still on a slab of ice.
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This looks like my Blue Moon. It is very different from all my other varieties. Comes on much later than everything else too.
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