I have found here, that sulfur works faster in the spring. i think because it’s wet the bacterial count is high. I like sulfur a lot as change is gradual, and lasts a long time. IMHO it is the best way. I use sulfuric acid in irrigation water for minute adjustments.
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I had my soil tested in 2009, the future Blueberry area showed a PH of 6.4 before amending, I added 1/2c of elemental sulfur per plant. One application April 1st and one Nov 1st. I didn’t amend the initial planting area other than adding a general organic fertilizer to bring up the N and some micro-nutrients. Had a soil test done in March of this year. PH in Blueberry area was 5.9, Sulfur takes time but it works.
I prefer U-Mass for my testing, but I’ve also used Rutgers and Cornell when they offer it.
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Cornell doesn’t offer the service anymore.
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As long as the pH is not above 8.2-8.3 it should not be an issue. Above that and chlorosis can be severe.
If you choose to use sulfur use powdered instead of pelleted. It takes many months before the microorganisms in the soil covert enough sulfur to sulfuric acid to lower the soil pH and the powdered has a greater surface area ratio so the reaction happens quicker. IF the soil is well buffered with carbonate as mentioned, this is a waste.
A good compost layer/wood chip mulch that breaks down over time with annual reapplication will do more to lower the pH/increase available nutrients than a continual need to apply sulfur. Though at best it will reduce soil pH to a plateau of about 7.8. But most minerals are absorbed by the roots just fine near this pH.
As was mentioned rootstock selection makes a world of difference as well.
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