Lucky,
One I would cross post this to the old Nafex listserv and try to perk up Fackler’s and Lehman’s attention among others.
That being said, when I see home orchard, I think in terms of high quality low yield as you don;t have to make it pay.
Raspberries
So let’s start with raspberries…go with fallbearers only and grow them only for a fall crop - period. The reason is if they cut the canes down in the winter and burn them the insect eggs and pathogens pretty much go with them.
For apples:
(all modern disease resistant)
Empire(Sept) , Enterprise(late Oct), Williams Pride, Dayton(late Aug), Liberty, Sundance, Co-op 39/Crimson Crisp (Sept)and GoldRush(late Oct – Nov) Sweet 16(late Sept-Oct), Wine Crisp (Mid Oct) Zestar(late Aug), Pristine
(Antiques with disease resistance)
Ashmead’s Kernel (mid October) Roxbury Russet(late Sept-Oct), Arkansas Black(late Oct-Nov), Grimes Golden (Oct), Hudson’s Golden Gem (Oct), King David (late Oct)St Edmunds Russet/Pippin (early Sept), Hoople’s Antique Gold, Kenner Seedling, Razor Russet, Chehalis
As a home grower, I would strongly suggest getting over the tree idea for apples and really, really take a strong look at 4 or 6 arm horizontal cordons. They are easy to maintain, produce extremely clean and high quality fruit. Think of it, each fruit gets the same sun exposure, great air circulation, thinning and spraying are easy. And I have to pass this tip on, for a home grower, cordons plus one or two box fans are amazing combinations. And with the list I gave, if they choose to bag the insect problem is greatly reduced (and can almost always be eliminated by wrapping in paper and then spraying the paper with an insecticide : ) With a few exceptions you would have to pay me to get me to go back to growing apples or pears in tree forms.
Pears:
I think all these will meet the chill requirement:
Harrow Delight
Harvest Queen
Harrow Sweet
Magness
Warren
Potomac
Burford Pear
All are top flight.