Remove Hale peaches and start over?

Bonide sells it as Infuse concentrate. I use that and Bonide’s Fruit Tree and Plant Guard, although this product has an insecticide too, and many don’t want that but I have problems with PC, so I need it. Rotating these two products with one or two sprays of Captan early in the season as it is very effective against blossom blight which is also caused by the brown rot fungus, usually very early on. If I’m late with a spray, or miss a spray I get some brown rot. So I try and overlap them a few days to make sure fruit is protected. Plant Guard has one of the most effective brown rot controls (for home use), and is a completely different mode of action then Infuse. You’re attacking brown rot on two fronts. Works fantastic. Also it is best these be delivered in an acidic solution. Add vinegar to tap water before adding pesticides. Or rainwater, or other acids if you prefer. I usually have sulfuric acid on hand (battery acid, new of course, not from batteries, never use used acid). I sometimes use that instead, but rarely. I use it to scarify seeds, or for my blueberries, if out of rainwater. Which usually does not happen. I don’t use vinegar with blueberries as it is an organic acid that breaks down and releases calcium back into the ground, Sulfuric acid takes carbonates and turns them into gypsum which is neutral, so pH does not rise back up like it will with vinegar (acetic acid) or citric acid. Vinegar stays acidic long enough to use with sprays.
Charts exist on the net that go over what pH pesticides work best at, I lost the links I had. Some work better at neutral or high. Best to research this for the pesticides you use. Like Malathion in pH of 7 works for an hour, at pH of 5 it will kill insects on contact for 30 hours. PH really really matters!

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