Replacing a Superior Plum

You’ll like it. Fantastic fruit. Mine were ripe this year mid Sept’ish… I had several people try different pluots (FK/etc) and they were amazed at the flavor…had no idea fruit like that existed.

Flavor King with a few Flavor Queen. Notice how FK cracked. I could have easily prevented it but i didn’t think we were going to get much rain (it ended up being a lot)…oh well…they were still delicious. The bees started hitting the cracked ones hard, hence the reason i picked them all.


Warm,

I saw those pics the last time you posted them and have been drooling ever since. Motivated me to give FK a try. Gorgeous looking fruits you had there. Bravo.

Oops.

Warm, I got your pics confused with these other pics posted by @bleedingdirt:

Looks like both of you have successfully fruited Flavor King. All of the pics look amazing.

This is what my Flavor King look like. They can be nearly a half pound but 1/3 lb would be normal when well thinned. They are pretty dark inside and out when fully ripe.

2 Likes

When will you start to flower your trees? Yours are ripe far earlier then mine (obviously)… Yours look great… They’ve got to be just loaded with Anthocyanins …

Flowering of pluots in my greenhouse is a February event, thin in March, and FK ripe in July. Summer temperatures in there are low 90s highs and mid 60s lows. Summer starts in May. It takes heat and sun to make a good pluot. Flavor Supreme ripens in late May to early June.

Good for you… it helps that you grow under plastic. You should grow them outside :slight_smile:

Rob, do you have significant brown rot in your orchard on any varieties? I am wondering if you are having good luck or I am having bad luck on FK. Once the brown rot hit me FK was in the worst category for me, but my tree did not have the best circulation.

Scott-

Rot seems very minimal except for the sweet cherries. I’m down to one sweet because the other 2 were such rot magnets. Maybe its a location thing…they face due north and have a wall to the south (lack of airflow?). I did do a little test this past spring…i took one branch full of sweet cherries and i wrapped it in plastic (the ends were open)…i taped it so the plastic wouldn’t come off…NONE of those cherries rotted while others outside that wrapped branch did…

All my pluots are pot grown to this point, so concrete under them heats up quickly/stays warm overnight (dry) plus they are in a spot that gets full sun morning to night. I did see rot in some donut peaches last summer, but when i checked they all had curculio in them…so that never helps.

I have used some calcium chloride on my pluots…but i have zero idea if that is doing anything. Maybe 2 sprays total during the season last year. I think research shows that it should help, but i’m not sure i’m applying the right amounts or enough sprays.

Interesting … the concrete could really be helping, its much less humid over concrete and the air dries out there much faster. You also have on me more sun exposure and a more friendly climate in general.

Do you still grow sweet cherries? How does that work?

I know maybe 3 years ago when i had a very dry spring, my sweet cherries did awesome. Almost no rot if i remember right. The past 2 years have been bad.

You’re right on concrete. I think its why i have to water so much. Its hard to overwater when the temps get into the 80Fs with lots of sun.

Have you though about bagging or some other method of protection? Maybe you’ve done that before…

I have too many trees to bag stuff, I used to do it back when I had only a few things.

Cherries I usually do OK on as long as I do a rot spray with e.g. MFF. There is not as much brown rot in my orchard early on. I might lose 1/4th of the cherries to rot in a rot-prone year.

I hate bagging too…usually it doesn’t help because the squirrels don’t care if a bag is there or not…

Here is a branch of Superior that was thinned…but not nearly enough… this tree is gone now, but was grafted to other trees.

What is the best way to control brown rot in stone fruit? I talked to another guy in my neighborhood that has 20 trees (apples, pears, plums, cherries) and he said most of his trees are producing well except that his plums are getting a lot of brown rot. He lives at the top of my development and I didn’t even realize he had any trees. He says he sprays but he’s not sure that he’s using the right chemicals. I’m hoping he has some interesting varieties that I can trade scions with.

Tell him to try Monterey Fungi-Fighter, it is propiconazole and not hard to find on the Internet. Its much more effective than the standard disease sprays. Its a synthetic, there is no great organic spray for brown rot. Sulphur and Serenade do help some.

1 Like

I might pick up a bottle and try it for my sweet cherries.

Scott,
Is the 3122 the same as what you use? I’ve noticed it’s cheaper than I have seen monterey elsewhere http://www.amazon.com/Monterey-LG-3122-Fungi-Fighter-Pt-16oz/dp/B00P84ZH5Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1452368371&sr=8-2&keywords=Monterey+Fungi-Fighter

Clark, I think thats just a part number - ? Just make sure it contains propiconazole and you are good.

1 Like

Looking around…a. pint of the 14.3% Propiconazole concentration runs about $25 to $30… probably the cheapest method?

That stuff is labeled for grass only, I found out the hard way. It has some other additives and I would not spray it on fruits.