It is between 68 - 70 degrees I have them in a small greenhouse in the basement. I also have fig cuttings growing along side the mulberry cuttings and the fig cuttings are showing roots.
My very poor understanding of rooting things is that higher air temperatures encourage leaf growth and higher soil temperatures encourage rooting. Would it not be better to have significantly lower air temperature to try to keep the leaves from getting too far ahead of any root growth?
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Bingo heat and humidity are things you want to stay away from with the 1 or 2 nodes above the soil.
@DAVELn17 I’ll be happy to send you another set of cuttings just message me your address so you can try again. I encourage you to wait until spring to root a few of them and do it outside in the shade. Figs will root great the same way.
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Ok I probably should have placed the cuttings in the dark with no heat and should not have provided light or heat to the cuttings until roots developed. Lesson learned. I thought that you treat the mulberry cuttings similar to fig cuttings. I have been fairly successful getting fig cuttings to root using the method described above. Thanks.
@DAVELn17 Stay away from those little clear cups use a 1 gallon size nursery pot or larger. You’ll be much happier with your outcome for both figs and mulberries.
SMC I agree that Rupp’s Romanian is difficult to root I’ve also tried several times and failed every time.
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Thanks for the offer. I do appreciate it but let’s see what happens to the current cuttings. I will keep you posted. Thanks again.
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Yes, even figs too.
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Thanks I meant to say earlier that I will reduce the room temp and see what happens.
DaveJ
Ok. Will do. Thanks.
Ok. I will try this. Thanks again.
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Looking good 
They are fast growers so it should be over 3 or 4ft by the end of the season and you should get a few fruit next year.
Thanks. I have them in pots. I would like to place them in the ground. Should I wait until fall or should I overwinter them in the garage and wait until spring. Thanks again.
You can plant them come fall it would be better than having the rootzone exposed to the elements overwinter in a pot. If you try other mulberries in the future you will find this one is the easiset to root later you can root cuttings of Shangri la to make rootstocks for other mulberries. They work better than alba seedlings for grafting. The one downfall with Shangri la is it’s susceptible to late spring frost. the new growth can be killed back on bad years and there wont be any fruits… Planting on the north side of a bulding or wall can help with breaking dormancy early.
If you want to swap some plant material next winter instead of buying some just shoot me a message, I’m sure we can work something out also if you haven’t checked them out yet you should go to garden.org and create a plant list. They have the largest database of plants in the world and the plant list feature is a must have for any gardener wanting to keep track of their named plants.
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Thanks for your help and advice. I hope as I learn and experience more with various fruit trees I can pay it forward to others some day. Thanks again.
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Silk hope from 20 cuttings none rooted.
White Pakistan / saharanpur mulberry from 20 cuttings none rooted
Oscar from 15 cuttings only one rooted
2 y old rooted Oscar mulberry
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Dave, That’s great your cuttings rooted and grew! What did you end up doing after your first post/photo? Did you lower air temp? Take them off heat mat? Keep them in light? How did they do ?
Sue
ps - I like the plastic cups so you can see if/when rooted.
Sue,
I did take them off the heat mat and I did keep them under lights. The air temps lowered due to removing the heat mat. Unfortunately I lost a lot growth when I placed them outside because the deer feasted on them. Actually ate them to the ground. I should have placed a wire cage around them. I learned a very valuable lesson. So most of my smaller trees have cages. Thanks for asking.
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