Safe Organic Control of Peach Leaf Curl and other Fungal Diseases

Sulphur is completely safe. Copper can build up in the soil. That’s why I only use copper when it is really needed. This year I used no copper, I didn’t have anything that needed it.

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Thank you.

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There is also Serenade Opti which is 26%.

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$350 plus shipping, but better pricing than ASO.

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At work, our supplier for Serenade Opti told us that Bayer didn’t produce any this year, so we switched to Serenade ASO. Not sure if this means Opti will be discontinued permanently.

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It is highly unlikely more than trace amounts of peracetic acid are being produced. Peracetic acid synthesis requires higher concentrations of the reagents and/or a strong acid catalyst. In the industry, sulfuric acid is usually used.

Out of honest curiosity, is hydrogen peroxide considered organic?

Surely peracetic acid, an industrial disinfectant, isn’t. I suppose since it is made from homely hydrogen peroxide and the liquid hippie panacea that is vinegar, it sounds more wholesome, but, at the end of the day, covering a tree with peracetic acid (which is what this recipe is trying to do) is basically equivalent to spraying it with dilute bleach.

The post also suggests using this spray during the growing season. I would not recommend using it on anything you intend on eating soon. Neem oil is somewhat toxic (to humans, though for fish it’s quite nasty, so be mindful of where and when you spray, please). The bigger issue is tea tree oil’s insecticidal properties come mostly from a chemical called cineol, which it contains in varying amounts (a better source, with more reliable dosage, would be eucalyptus globulus oil). Cineol is toxic to mammals, the median lethal dose is 2.5 g/kg. If you’re spraying enough of it to make the bugs sick, you’re spraying enough of it to make you sick.

And, beyond that, by mixing these various terpenoids with an acid and a strong oxidizer, there’s really no telling what kind of chemicals you’re going to be making. Serendipitously, a lot of hormones and hormone precursors happen to be terpenoids, including steroids. Sure, the concentrations are low enough that there’s probably very little of anything getting produced, including peracetic acid, but I’d reckon that while “neem and tee tree oil, vinegar, and peroxide” sound innocuous, mixing up a chemical cocktail that’s not highly dissimilar to a low quality 'roid recipe, adding a bunch of highly reactive chemicals to it, and spraying it on your food probably violates the precautionary principle. Just sayin.

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Nice, maximum profit. What is the shelf life of Serenade?

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Probably not. Personally I don’t care if something is organic or not as long as it’s broken down quickly without harming the ecosystem.

I have sprayed Zerotol (Oxidate) which is a pre-mixed H2o2 and Peracetic acid per the label instructions without any issues.

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Good to know. I didn’t mean to insinuate that peracetic acid was somehow bad, only that I couldn’t see how it’d be organic.

And since it is a pretty strong disinfectant, getting a known concentration (ie commercial stuff) and applying it per instructions is definitely way safer than trying to homebrew it.

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Label says 3 years for Opti.

If grapes can pick up eucalyptus and smoke flavors from nearby trees and wildfires, I wouldn’t be surprised if other fruit get off-flavors from using essential oil based sprays close to harvest.

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Ah, I hadn’t thought of that. Good point. While some of them might be considered good flavors in and of themselves, they’d still most likely be and off-flavor in whatever you’re growing. Camphor-and-hemp-flavored lettuce? I’ll pass.

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Hey Folks,

I’d love to get some advice on using cover for PLC.

I live in California Bay Area. I have tried using the Italian dressing on my nectarines with mixed results at best. This past year the PLC was disastrous. Since I already have a wire cage surrounding my fruit trees to protect from birds, it would be relatively easy for me to give the cover method a try this year. Toward that end I have a few questions please:

  1. When do I need to install the cover? Just before the first leaves emerge? Does it need to be on before the flowers open (which happens before the leaves emerge)? I’d like to wait as long as possible before installing it.

  2. How long do I need to keep the cover on? Do I need to wait until we get to the dry season (~May)? Or just until the trees are well leafed out?

  3. Am I correct in assuming I need to have the cover come down on the sides to prevent wind-driven rain from hitting the branches?

  4. I have drip irrigation, but don’t turn it on until I need it. Assuming we get good rains before I install the cover, will the trees be ok without getting the rain that would otherwise fall on them? I plan to set the cover to be just outside the treeline so rain will fall just outside their tree line. Hopefully that will provide the roots with some water, but I’m not sure it will be sufficient (depending on how long I need to leave the cover on into spring).

Any advice would be much appreciated!

This is what I’d do.
When do I need to install the cover? Just before the first leaves emerge.
How long do I need to keep the cover on?Just until the trees are well leafed out.
Am I correct in assuming I need to have the cover come down on the sides to prevent wind-driven rain from hitting the branches?Yes,rain splashing from the ground,to the trees,can infect them.
Assuming we get good rains before I install the cover, will the trees be ok without getting the rain that would otherwise fall on them?Probably,then dig down a little by them and check for moisture.If the ground is dry,then turn on the drip.
Nice cage.

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Tea tree oil is a toxin. Look it up. This Italian dressing post should be removed because it states the dressing is safe enough to “lick off”. Too little knowledge in the original post.

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