Looks like a step up. Just figure out how much active ingredient you are getting for your money. I suspect yours is more concentrated and a much better value even without looking closely.
This might be okay for fruit trees,but it’s main purpose is turfgrass and ornamentals.It is a systemic and I saw this in the labeling:Note: To avoid possible illegal residues, do not apply to apple, Bartlett pear, cherry, citrus, nectarine, peach, pecan, plum, or walnut trees that will bear harvestable fruit within 12 months.
That is most likely addressed to commercial growers,to avoid being sued,if consumers get sick,eating the fruit.bb
1 Like
Fungi-fighter is only 1.55%.
Which is almost like 1/10 of 14.3%
I didn’t realize that it is not in a form approved for edible crops. All that I know is that the label is the law. Beyond that, I’ve no idea the consequences, but clearly the formulas must be different. If you are going to break the law, maybe the safest route is to buy some Indar in a share deal with other members.
I looked to see if here was anything else sold in a packaging size suitable for small orchards and found nothing.
Fertilome is another brand but seems to be of similar pricing and concentration as MFF.
Bonide Infuse is labled for use on bearing stone fruit. It’s basically the same product as Monterey Fungi Fighter. After fighting a losing battle with brown rot last year using just Captan, this year I alternated this and Captan. Almost no brown rot on peaches, little on plums.
2 Likes
The active ingredient in immunox is myclobutanil.
Use Rally + oil to do first
Avaunt + Rally second
Avaunt + Rally third
Captan ( one or two) to stone fruits fours before first ripen.
What else?
For stink bugs, spray one or more time of Avaunt?
1 Like
In spite of the label, it is not very effective on fruit brown rot and Cornell only recommends it to prevent blossom blight, which I’ve never experienced here.
I still use some propiconazole for rots on stone fruit. I tank mix it with Captan using the 1/2 max rate of Captan (2.5 lbs. per acre). It reduces the cost of Captan alone and works better.
Remember if using Captan, unless you are certain the pH of your water is at least pH neutral, or acidic, make sure you acidify the water before the Captan is added.
2 Likes
Once and Done is probably better for bugs.
How to lower PH of water? Put some Vinegar?
Thanks for that Alan,
I primarily grow Apples and Pears and not so familiar with Diseases of stone fruit.
1 Like
I use Li700 to acidify my water.
I doesn’t take much. If you live anywhere near me you can have some as I have probably a 5 year supply or more.
Do you do any dormant spray?
I don’t consider half-inch green thorough tight cluster to usually be essential, but it depends on pressure the previous season. I found out this year that I can control peach leaf curl without an additional spray if I time it just as apples show some green- when I am doing a “dormant” spray.
Private message me. I live near Ann Arbor MI.
I will be purchasing all new chemicals this winter as I have run out of Imidan Captan and Rally.
My orchard is pretty small and these chemicals usually last me 5 years or more. I am looking to reduce the total amount of chemicals I need to buy if you know what I mean.
Just about any organic acid would work. Vinegar (acetic acid) will work. I use citric acid because it’s cheaper.
1 Like
Captan is very pH sensitive, At pH of 8 half the Captan is destroyed in 10 minutes. Citric acid is probably the best for pH adjustment since it’s a powder and only a small amount is required per gallon of water. Locally you can usually find it in the food canning supplies area since citric acid is used in canning. Here is a link to an older post talking about adjusting pH for spraying Captan.
I live in NW Arkansas. Too far from you.