Step over figs


#21

I think next year I will try to thin/ position shoots better, early.
Not sure you can make sense of it in the pics still ?
Like the second to last photo.
That plant comes up out of the ground in the "middle "and is laying flat in two directions.
Also the pic with the blue bucket / milk crate, shows the overall height , the bucket is sitting on the ground same height as where Figs are planted.
So really short .
Down where the ground heat is !


#22

Oh , I also got a barrel full ’ + of cuttings ,
Hoping to make use of them,
looks like a winter project .:grinning:


#23

There are no extra points for how good it looks, just how well it works. That said, I think you have a great system going and I’ll continue to follow it with interest. Please show pictures of them growing throughout the year!


#24

They look pretty enough to me! As they grow older and thicker they’ll just naturally become more picturesque. And as Jason said, functionality’s the thing anyway.


#25

WOW! Is 3-5ft common with figs? I’m impressed!


#26

That’s about normal for first year plants, maybe a little smaller than normal because there wasn’t much rain this summer but I didn’t want them to get big so didn’t water after August.


#27

Do you mean you will be moving them at some point? Will this spacing with good pruning capable of giving decent fruits?


#28

They are seedlings, planted 6’ apart with 8’ between rows, it is just for 3 years to select plants, not a permanent planting. They will be solid hedges with hardly any room between rows in 2 years.


#29

I see! how would you design a SHD fig orchard otherwise please. I’m trying to use up the space as much as possible while maintaining good quality fruits.


#30

That is a really tough question… And I’m not really sure since I’ve never tried it. My compost socks are super high density, but are basically container plants which are dwarfed. And I’m still figuring that out. They are spaced about every 3 ft. with 6 ft. between rows, but in ground that would be unmanageable because even after total dieback most varieties regrow to 8 ft.

Unpruned/minimally pruned trees with more branches generally end up more productive here, because they ripen more figs in a shorter window. And tend to be better quality and larger. But protecting unpruned trees is difficult, and they seem to split more. Growing figs has basically been a learn as I go experience.

The orchard I planted is spaced 8 ft. between trees and 16/14 ft. between rows. They are planted through ground cover, the section that has 16 ft. between rows has 6 ft. wide ground cover and the 14 ft. has 4ft. (the fields were already defined by drive rows) so there is 10 ft. of turf to mow between them, which is one pass with the tractor (which doesn’t fit between rows that survived winter) or 2 with the riding mower. 8ft. is plenty of space when they die back, but trees that have survived 2 or more years need thinning to keep them from getting crowded… But there is no guarantee of winter survival, even with protection, so planting at greater distances means there will not be hardly any harvest after a bad winter.

The Etna types have done the best overall, others just don’t set figs after dying back, or ripen too late, or have problems with splitting and bugs.