Hi,
I have used this one for about 3 years now.
CEF&keywords=shovels&qid=1675722183&sprefix=shovels%2Caps%2C76&sr=8-8
Hi,
I have used this one for about 3 years now.
CEF&keywords=shovels&qid=1675722183&sprefix=shovels%2Caps%2C76&sr=8-8
See below
[4.6 out of 5 stars ](javascript:void(0)) 1,578 ratings
Amazon’sChoicefor “fiskars shovel”
-38% $28.49$28.49
List Price: $45.99$45.99
Thank you all. I think the razorback are neat, but I’ don’t find myself dealing with such roots on a frequent enough basis. I did once and used a shingle shovel to cut through what I needed to .
Scott
Have you tried any electric loppers?
There’s been talk here about electric hand pruners, but as long as my hands don’t succumb to arthritis I will stick to manual tools besides my sprayers, Stihl chain saw and weed whacker- that and the mower I use for my own lawn. and sod between fruit trees where I can use it.
I believe that using your own body as much as possible helps to preserve it. I seldom use the chain saw while pruning because my Silky saw goes through pretty large wood quicker than going to my truck and starting up the chain saw- Stihls never seem to start on the first pull. My next one will be electric… if I live that long.
I was going to say… I have a Milwaukee pole saw and use a Milwaukee chainsaw with a carbide blade at work (both are great).
However, Direct Tools Outlet has had the ryobi version of both as well as the pole loppers Direct Tools Outlet Site
They were on sale recently but I didn’t bite. I think the pole saw was only like 65 bucks and the loppers were around 150. It would be nice to have that extra 9’ reach on both when needed. Currently I don’t have a use for that but for someone who does, I could see it saving time not having to climb up a tree. Plus, not having to lug around mix gas is nice since I don’t typically have a truck for personal use (and they always start first pull
)
I do careful and very quick work and like to be within arms length of every cut I make…it’s faster and helps me avoid tearing the bark. I’m nimble on a ladder or on the branches of trees (at least for a 70-year old). I’m on ladders and in trees all day long for more than half the year… every working day and hour.
I’m not qualified to recommend what is best for those who practice a lot less than I do, but until you’ve used a really good manual pruning saw you don’t know how easy it can be to cut through wood. My Silky Gomtarro 300MM course cut is a monster and, for the amateur, the blade will stay sharp for years. I sometimes go a week without making a single chain saw cut while pruning hundreds of trees. Especially if they are trees I’ve been managing for at least a few years.
When you are up in a tree with a chainsaw, it is nice to have one light enough to hold with one arm but powerful enough to quickly cut through any diameter the bar can handle. Whence my Stihl pro limbing saw. Almost $600 for a very small saw. I hear the electric version is killer.
That’s the same Silky I have, I couldn’t be happier with it. We have 10 Stihl chainsaws, the smallest being a MS193c. As we’ve gotten older we have embraced the smaller saws for limbing up (the majority of the work) but we haven’t gotten a top handle saw as we aren’t ever in the tree. We’re interested in a battery saw for use at the sawmill though. I do believe I’ll pick up a pair of those Bahco’s, I like the longer handle. Thanks for the info Alan.
I’ve been eying this M18 Milwaukee mini chainsaw. For my infrequent use, it would be nice not to have to maintain 2 cycle fuel and carburetor. I have the reciprocating saw, but that’s murder to get through 6" dead hardwood (needed more for cleanup than pruning).
I also have some Silky blades and Black And Decker Aligator loppers, plus a Greenworks Pole chainsaw.