What fruit rootstocks will you use in 2026

Yes, that was my experience, G.210 grafted much more successfully for me if I planted it out for a year and then grafted. G.210 was one of those Geneva rootstocks that often came with little to no roots, just lots of those callous bumps. I would expect if you ordered larger, more mature rootstocks from Copenhaven, Williamette, et.al. it’d be more successful. If you can get them to take, they do make a nice tree.

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I ordered a few G.214 for potted patio trees. We’ll see how that works out for me…

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You could be fine. We had a very bad fire blight year then. Trees tend to get fireblight younger and often age out to stronger resistance.

Ordering couple Krymsk1 roots - experimenting with Redhaven interstem and further peach grafting. Not sure yet what variety will be grafted on top of Redhaven.

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What does the redhaven interstem do?

I believe there were some incompatibility reports about Krymsk1 and some prunus persica verities. Redhaven is proven to be compatible with Krymsk1.

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G890 and OHxF87

I have a guardian rootstock that I’ll attempt to bud graft Contender to later in the season.

I’ve ordered g890, Siberian crabapple, ohxf 97, and American plum rootstocks. I will also order Sargent crabapple, swamp crabapple, and select Siberian crabapple seeds from sheffields.com

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Mostly G214. I have a lot of Bud9, and they are runty little trees that need a lot of water during a hot summer. I mentioned this to Tonya at Home Orchard Education Center, and she had heard the same… and @dannytoro1 also said it, so it must be true, right?

I like M111 a lot for dealing well with my water extremes, but I am getting too old for the wait and the ladders.

Last year’s G214 grafts in pots haven’t grown as much as I hoped yet, so I may be sorry I bought 50 more G214 rootstock. However, the Bud9 I potted after grafting didn’t grow a ton until their second year, either. I planted them out the second fall and winter. Hope the G214s will be big enough by then. :crossed_fingers:t3: