i do the same now I’m z3b/4a and i don’t buy anything to plant unless hardy to z3 or lower. it limits what i can plant but everything survives and fruits.
early bloomers are a crapshoot here.
its a good thing there are more quality cold hardy fruit now than there were 40 yrs. ago.
I don’t think chill hours is completely understood, I think all the models prove that as some fruit plants are not listening. Some low chill works as well as anything here, like the Nectaplum. If has not lost fruit buds to early blooming, but SHB blueberries will bloom early here, I gave up after 4 years of trying. I use an all season oil but neem works too. I just have it on hand.
My brother lives in Florida (and I did too for a time) and with all the “florida man” stories I asked him what state people in Florida make fun of. He told me the jokes there are all about “Florida man” and “Ohio man”.
The big “Cherry Festival” here in Michigan is up in Traverse City (about 5 hours north-west of Drew and I). Michigan is always portrayed as a big union/democrat stronghold, but once you get outside of Detroit/Flint//Lansing the state is pretty solidly red. Also, I could likely drive from my house to Tenn in less time than I could drive to the north-west corner of the UP (Upper Peninsula) of Michigan. (that’s assuming the Ohio troopers don’t have a quota due as they seem to relish getting us Michiganders, especially during football season.
I keep a few (non-edible) trap plants along with my indoor plants in the winter. I look for lush, juicy plants and treat them with a systemic. It puts a hurting on the indoor nasties which would otherwise want my special plants.
I also wait as long as I can before bringing them in and spray everything off just before bringing them in.
That is a fantastic question, Dan, and I appreciate you asking. Unfortunately, though, I really don’t know the answer. I haven’t dug up many of my dead sweet cherries- in part because I wouldn’t know what to look for. The only thing I noticed about the few I dug up was that just seemed to have much less root structure than I’d expect. I didn’t look close enough to tell you much else about the roots, but 2 year old trees had just about the same roots as when I planted them bare root. The trees that die do so at no particular time, and die slowly-often starting with just one limb. The one common thread with all my sweet cherries EXCEPT my beloved Black tartarian is that whether they die or not, they just barely grow. I have a tulare and a brooks that are 4 years old and honest to goodness they put on new growth at rate of about 2.5 inches a year! They look pretty healthy in summer, but just don’t grow. After 4 years they have put on less than a foot of growth. I’ve fertilized them with trip 15 the last 2 years but not the first 2 and there was no real difference. The dirt where they are planted is good and drains pretty well. In short, its a big mystery. But something must be going on because I’ve had 7 or 8 sweet cherries - every one a different variety. But equally mysterious is how well black tartarians do here. The one big one is about 18 feet tall, 8 inch trunk, just a big beautiful tree with shinny green leaves and not a trace of any health issues at all. In case you are thinking it is just a fluke (like I thought), I bought a second BT last year and it is doing just like my first one. It put on probably 15 inches of new growth on most tips and even put out new scaffolds. These 2 BTs are planted right in the middle of all my other sweet cherries and are treated the same. BTW, I keep about 2 inches of mulch around all my trees, but I doubt that is an issue. Just trying to give all the variables in case you or other members might have a clue what my problem is.
You know, its pretty well known that sweet cherries usually don’t work in the south, but I’m not sure how they fail for others. Do the trees die, or do they just get sick with diseases, etc , or is it just problems with the fruit itself? Is my problem the same as other sweet cherry trees attempted in the south?
Anyway, thanks again for the interest. If anyone has any insights,I’d appreciate it. thanks
Do you have Theisens up there? I will probably be buying my new plums there. They have a nice selection of varieties that should do well in Iowa/Wisconsin. (Black Ice, Superior, Toka, Contender, the U of MN apples)
They even had Honeyberries last year. I don’t know if they will this year, though, as it didn’t look to me like they had sold any of them in late June when they were clearancing all their nursery stock.
Other things that will not be returning to my new orchard.
M7 Rootstock. It suckers too profusely. Worse, it is stingy with inducing fruit bearing in scions and is too vigorous for my preferred tree size (mostly on account of not fruiting much).
About 20 mins from here but i’ve never been there. I’ll have to check it out if they carry trees. I’m going to be eating acorn mush this year maybe my oak trees will produce a bumper crop…that is if i can fight the squirrels off.
Maybe the squirrels froze to death?
Last year was the acorn mast year. We really like acorn bread-one part acorn to two parts white flour.
Are you keeping it in a pot? We put ours in the ground each year, it grows great, and then we divide it up in the fall and pot it up for overwintering. It barely survives like that (and not always), but once it goes back in the ground after the last frost it always takes off and does great.
You may want to try grafting some desired sweet cherry varieties to your BT. I have about ten varieties on my Stella tree, the healthiest tree. Grafts tend to grow rapidly on healthy trees as opposed to planting a bear root and waiting for it to become established and produce fruit, pollination is better too. This strategy works very well with plum/pluot/pluerries in my zone 9.
I could only hope, but i’ve seen a few out scampering around.
I’ve tried eating them a few times. Very very bitter. I think you have to boil them or something?
Yeah, me too. But you’ve been colder
yes, it is potted. I will plant it in the soil this spring and see if the recovery is accelerated. (if it makes it…)
Maybe the reason is different rootstock. Especially BT are bought from different nursery.
I use fork to separate fruits from stems and to make cold syrup with equal quantity of sugar.