What tomatoes will you grow in 2018?

Noticed that a few of my chocolate cherry Tom’s had started to color up.

I then noticed that they had blossom end rot. After looking at some of the additional green ones a few of them had started rotting too.

This is one of the plants I put in a self watering bucket. I added gypsum during the additional potting and once since. As was mentioned by Bob earlier these plants appear to be paler green in color than my in ground plants.

My other two bucket plants show no sign of BER but are pale like the other.

Is chocolate cherry prone to BER and what can I do from here forward to prevent this on the newer fruits. Does folliar rot stop work?

I’ve never had BER on my Chocolate Cherry fruit, nor on any other cherry plants. I (and others) tend to see it on Roma type tomatoes. I’m speaking of my experience of in-ground plants.

Some folks will say BER is too much water, but others say it’s a calcium deficiency. Since you’re growing this variety in a container, I’m leaning towards too much water. Tom’s like it warm and dry, although a plant in a container may need to be watered a bit more, but not too much. My success rate with tom’s in containers is poor, so someone else with better results should chime in. Maybe @Drew51 could comment.

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Too much water stops the roots from taking up calcium. Too little can too. I don’t use SIP so I’m limited there. You could add more perlite to the mix to drain better. Probably lowers the perch level too. Use a coarser or larger particle potting mix. Fertilize with calcium nitrate once in a while. I found this not to be helpful but others have. I like to error in too dry than too wet with tomatoes.

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Well yes, in comparison to the Ohio Valley rainforest! Warm is the key. In some areas though, they are dead when dry. For example, I water mine thrice weekly until well established – but then, my environment is dry to begin with.

As @Drew51 inferred, drainage is important.

@speedster1 – the rot in your photos is occurring at the calyx end. That means the agent is in place during blossom and fruit formation – it is not a calcium deficiency problem. I’d personally go after it when blossoms appear with a very light (1/4 dose) foliar copper or zinc spray for mildews, etc.

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While it is correct to say that BER is caused by calcium imbalance, that does not describe the actual problem. The problem is a combination of soil health and genetics. A tomato plant has difficulty absorbing calcium, more difficulty transporting it through the stem, and still more difficulty moving it into the fruit. This is exacerbated by any imbalance in nitrogen availability. So in a fit of passion, you dump a load of nitrogen on the soil around your tomato plants. Guess what? Excess nitrogen inhibits absorption of potassium. Now you have a plant that has abundant dark green leaves but the flowers all fall off without setting fruit. What to do? Use a fertilizer that provides the correct nutrients in balance with each other. Different plants have different requirements. Corn for example needs a lot more nitrogen than tomatoes. The amount of “available” nutrients in your soil also has to be considered. High phosphorus soils do not need more phosphorus dumped around the tomato plants because it is already available in excess. Do a soil test to determine nutrient requirements. Add an abundance of good quality compost because compost is slow release nutrients that feed the plant over a long time period. Use fertilizer if needed. Tomatoes generally absorb best if fertilized with 1-3-2 ratio nutrient mixes. This is a VERY hard mix to find so use something that gets close. Most of the time, 4-12-12 or similar will work.

What about genetics? Yes, roma types are much more prone to BER. They are genetically less capable of transporting calcium from the roots through the canopy. I advise anyone growing paste type tomatoes in containers to spray with liquid calcium. It is available at most garden stores.

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Tomatoes are looking great right now. A couple of them are already close to 5ft tall (Russian Queen and Chocolate Cherry). Some have already set some fruit, although I’ve noticed some blooms look like they’re withering in this heat. I think tom’s won’t bloom above 90 or so, and it’s been that hot for about a week, even tho it gets down to the 60s at night. I tilled in between them last week, and They seem to like it, plus the hot, dry weather has been a boon to them.

Since I’m hesitant to get rid of suckers, the plants are getting quite unruly, so I’ve had to add a bunch more stakes to accommodate these new branches now.

@Drew51, the GGWT plants are looking very good, and the Romeo plants seem be a very bushy, low to the ground type plant. They’re really a lush, deep green, but seem to be a smaller plant compared to some of the others. Is this variety a determinate?

No, as far as I know it’s indeterminate. Yesterday I harvested my first beefsteak, Omar’s Lebanese. .

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'Dood; Here’s a shot of the lone Romeo that I have planted out from seeds that I got from Drew. (Don’t mind the grass, I’ve been busy on cherries and just haven’t had a chance to get back in there to clean things up)

No experience with them yet, but they’re listed as an indeterminate. Seems to be doing pretty good here so far. I think by counting the squares on the cage it’s about 4+ feet. It’s overall plant size is slightly bigger than the San Marzano’s to the left of him right now.

Romeo doesn’t have the sheer numbers of fruit that any of the San Marzano have, but the the fruit is enormous so far. Looking forward to it in a big way.

Don’t know if it’ll do it justice but here’s a shot of a couple of the toms it’s carrying - really big!

Here’s one of the San Marzano. They set about like cherry toms - like crazy! And it’s throughout the plant - all of 'em. Love this variety.

And here’s a pix of Big Beef - unreal how many this variety sets for a fairly good sized slicer.

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Thanks! Your plants look great. I hardly noticed the grass, your plot look very tidy compared with mine, even after I ran the tiller through it.

Yes, San Marzano were very prolific for me, but a disease magnet, I’m hoping the Romeo plants will do better.

I’ll try to get some pics from our patch, but maybe later today. It’s already 93 here at noon! :fearful: I had to drive to the doc yesterday (50 miles) and my flakey A/C in my car decided not to work, we were so glad to get home last night. I also staked some tomato plants yesterday, so I went through 3 t-shirts!

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Early in this post I told of growing tomatoes for my buddy. He texted recently “Limbaugh’s Legacy strikes first.”

Dax

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Very nice looking tomato!

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I tried to get him to tell me how it was but he hasn’t returned my text. He runs his own business and he works a lot.

Dax

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If he is eating tomatoes, he has a good reason to ignore silly questions. :slight_smile: :open_mouth: :smiley:

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Our gardens were looking a bit parched after some really hot, dry weather over the last week or so. So, we’re thankful we got some rain Friday, plus it’s not as humid.

Our plants seemed to get a real boost from the rain, there’s a couple of thrm over 5ft now, and that’s after only been in the ground about 30 days. Quite a few of them have set fruit, none ready of course. I had to do a lot of staking (20?) yesterday. The combination of rain and wind caused some plants’ branches to fall over, so i propped them back up with some tobacco sticks, and they seem OK today. I don’t prune the plants much, unless the branches are near the ground, so they can get quite big.

I’ll try to get some pics posted soon.

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Some pics from the patch.

Inside the tomato jungle, pardon the weeds, this is even after tilling the patch last week. I have spaced them 4ft apart, which seems like a lot at planting, but as you can see, it gets filled in.

Chocolate Cherry, almost 6ft tall now :open_mouth::astonished:

Russian Queen

Overall view of patch

This evening I gave all the tom’s and peppers a liquid fert drench, as some are looking a bit pale green.

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I picked the first ripe tomato from my garden yesterday. It was from a plant that is an F1 hybrid of Tastiheart X LA0417, i.e. a large fruited potato leaf heart crossed with a disease resistant cherry tomato. I saved the F2 seed for next year.

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I have a question. Some of my varieties are looking like they will get over 6ft tall, a lot higher than the tobacco sticks I’m using as stakes. If I do nothing they’ll keep getting higher to the point of flopping over or breaking.

If I top the the plants at say, 6ft, would the plants put out more lateral growth below the pruning cut? I thinking along the lines of topping a fruit tree to get it to put out more shoots below the cut.

Just a quick report from Georgia, 8a. Planted 3 hybrids and 3 heirlooms. Early Girl, Better Boy, Lemon Boy, Cherokee Purple, Pink Brandywine, and Black Krim.

Picked my first ripe tomatoes a week ago (I probably planted late—last year I got my first tomatoes in mid-June. After trying organic/minimal spray last year and failing spectacularly due to disease problems, this year I am alternating copper and chlorothalonil every two weeks or so and it has greatly greatly slowed the progression of disease. Some of the heirlooms are showing a bit of disease of the lower leaves/limbs, but it’s not spreading very fast and I think it should be a few months before it really affects them. This is a spectacular improvement from last year.

Early Girl: Some people say it isn’t early for them. Well, here it is. About two weeks early. It doesn’t have the greatest taste, but it’s still better than a supermarket tomato. It continues to set in the heat (has about 12-15 green tomatoes on it now) and the temps have been in the 90s during the day this whole month. Plus, it doesn’t have a spot of disease on it with my spray program. So, the only thing it really falls short on is taste. But I like to have a few reliable tomato plants that can pump out tomatoes, so I am happy with it.

Black Krim: I didn’t have much hope for a Russian tomato in the Deep South, but it is loaded with green tomatoes right now. Doesn’t have a problem setting in the heat, obviously. Also surprised by how many tomatoes it has right now-most of the heirlooms I’ve gotten before have been a bit stingy with production. Unfortunately, even with the spray program, it has the most disease, but even saying that, it isn’t extreme. Just means you have to keep up with it.

Cherokee Purple: A monster plant that seems to hate the heat-I think it has one tomato on it right now despite tons of flowers. Despite the fact I love Cherokee Purple’s taste, I probably won’t grow it next year-I don’t need a 6 foot tall tomato plant with 2 tomatoes on it.

Pink Brandywine: Read Cherokee Purple’s description.

Lemon Boy and Better Boy: Heat doesn’t seem to bother them that much-maybe the yields are a bit reduced but they’re still setting plenty of good-looking and decent tasting tomatoes. Weirdly enough, the Better Boy, along with the Black Krim, have the most disease on their leaves. Again, I think the spray program will keep it under control, but it is odd, since the Better Boy is a hybrid.

I am sure the reports on these tomatoes are not going to interest many of you, since they are very common varieties. However, I thought they might be of interest for folks that have to deal with the extreme heat and disease pressure we get here in the Deep South.

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I’ve been eating Gardeners Delight for a couple of weeks now. My other cherry is Chocolate Cherry which I’ve harvested about a half dozen from. I greatly prefer chocolate cherry in both taste and texture. It’s a very nice tomato. Gardeners is okay too but I’ve noticed its rather soft which I’m not a huge fan of. Goods in salads though. Next tomato to ripen for me will be Black Krim. Looking forward to my first taste of it.

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VSOP, Most black tomatoes thrive in the deep south. I highly recommend Black Cherry, Bear Creek, J.D.'s Special C-Tex, and Black From Tula.

There are several blacks that are disease magnets. Black Sea Man is one of the worst for septoria. Paul Robeson gets early blight. These tomatoes do very well in a dry climate.

The disease you are most likely struggling with is septoria. Virtually all tomatoes are susceptible. The reason I am growing several hybrids with LA0417 is that it carries significant septoria resistance. I am trying to breed a large fruited tomato with that resistance.

Disease control is much better with Agrifos and azoxystrobiin. I don’t generally use them, but some people in this area do with excellent results.

Please try Big Beef as an alternative to Better Boy. It is more productive and has better flavor.

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