2017 Grafting Thread

Has anyone sprayed grafts with that black spray can stuff?

Here’s what I did to a friend’s old pear tree that produces hard pears he does not like. Phase one of three year makeover. These bark grafts are Potomac pear. I also did whip and tongue grafts of Magness, Vavilov, Moonglow on many small trunk sprouts.

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I think I could graft mulberry here as Missouri zone 6

That’s what I used as sealer on my first ever first year grafting. It worked well. I had seen it on a grafting vid. It can be messy. I had the two lower buds on cleft graft scions leaf out through it. Everything had been wrapped in parafilm and then the top of the graft sprayed with the pruning sealer.

Katy

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It all seems to be messy!

But my concern is not to injure the scions with evil chemical


I grafted mulberry a while ago. It stays alive but does not grow much. The buds on the rootstock just started to wakeup. Based on the rootstock I think it’ll start to grow soon.

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Pear grafts grow like crazy.


Apples grafted at different times are growing at about the same rate the later grafted ones are catching with the early grafted. This is Beacon apple graft.

Europlum grafted early March before the hard freeze.


And the euros grafted at the fourth week of March are quickly catching up. This is one of mirabelles plums.

Peach grafts started to show green tips. These were grafted at the third week of March and they had their share of the cold weather and several frosts at night.


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This link is for a page dealing with grafting conifers but a few of the drawings caught my attention so I looked at the page. The techniques used are variations of common methods but altered a bit to create maximum cambium contact (there are a series of drawings, for a quick scan). I had been trying some of these intuitively and even using the ‘banana’ graft, and for the same reason: thinking of the cambium contact. Just an FYI.

http://www.fao.org/docrep/03650e/03650e0f.htm

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Well I sprayed it over parafilm on all my grafting but it smells like asphalt if that answers your question…:flushed:

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Got to 80 here today . So I went ahead and grafted the mulberries . The bark slipped and sap flowed on the rootstock . Should be ok I think . Never had any luck before . I was trying too early I think . Always budded mulberry .

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You must have young kids, too! Great idea. I’ll start saving it.

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Lol, no my young kids days are far behind me but I try to use it as a snack to avoid carbs… and I like cheese. I do really like the consistency of it if you keep it in your pocket, sticks to the scion but not to my hands.

I’m not sure which stuff you are talking about, but if you are referring to the spray-on rubber sealant, @speedster1 suggested it as a possibility and I’ve used it and so far I’m very pleased with it…buds are just now pushing through it on some of my scions. I used white instead of black to help with the heat.

I forgot- we already talked about both of us enjoying baby bells and using the wax. the globs in those photos look like it was melted, though. Is that just from your pocket or do you heat it beyond that? I love the glue and water idea. I hate wrapping my whole scions but its a lot of trouble to heat a pan of wax to dip them in. I may try the elmers and water thing.

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It is just in my shirt pocket, works perfect.

I grafted several Wolf Rivers this year for a friend as both of us had not seen any locally. Last night I went to Lowes and the first fruit tree I saw was a Wolf River, $30. Nice size and looked good, they only had one left. Never expected to see one there.

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When is it safe to call a graft a success? I mean how many inches of growth on the scion?

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That is a tough question to answer. Most of my grafts are well connected about July but some need more time and others need less. I definitely look at the length of growth as a starting point (12" or longer). If you remove the tape and the graft doesn’t look strong wrap it and wait a month or two.

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When it grows the following year assuming it’s a compatible scion. I’ve had them grow the first year but die over the winter.

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I hope this is the place for this question. Is it possible to seal the moisture in your graft TOO well? I opened one of mine today and the wood was actually wet to the touch.

I have wondered the same. I feel like the answer is no. However long term there must be fungus and rott issues. Ancient greek/Roman sources describe a method of grafting whereby a pot is made to slowly drip water on the graft - which would lead me to believe that moisture is good.

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