This is the plum passed down through my family that I'm calling Toole's Heirloom cut in half.
Toole's Heirloom whole. The best ones are a little more orange and less red. This one was a tad over ripe for my liking.
This pic gives you a sense of the leaves.
Here is a general description of the tree: It has the typical lance shaped leaves of a Chickasaw plum. The trees are big for plum trees, about 20+ ft tall. It doesn't get quite as big as a European plum, but it gets bigger than any of the Japanese types I've seen. It sucker's profusely. Both in my yard and in my parent's yard they will show evidence of leaf scald in late summer and will loose their leaves pretty early in fall, but it does not seem to hurt the vigor of the tree or fruit production. Judging from a tree that was in my aunt's yard, this one while certainly not immune to stem canker will persist and bare fruit for several years with stem canker.
My biggest complaint about this strain of plum is that the blooms are very short lived even for a plum. If you don't have good bee weather for the three days or so this plum is blooming, it's just too bad for that season. However, in my yard, the blowers of heirloom seem to open right in the middle of Robusto's bloom time. (Robusto flowers last over a week.)
The fruit is sweet and very soft when ripe. It's my latest ripening plum in my yard, ripening towards late June and early July here in SE Georgia. The plum curculios like this one the best, and the trees are invariably way too big to get good coverage with pesticide.
Every year I have suckers to give away.
By the way, I'm very much of the opinion that you should try to get your Chickasaw type plums growing on their own roots. They are a much longer lived tree than the peach root stock that nurseries invariably graft them onto, and you can keep a strain going forever by transplanting the root suckers a few yards away from the parent. Plums are not easy to root but it can be done with cuttings taken in late September or early October. God bless.