2016 graft thread

General Fruit Growing
#341

Matt,
If there is any parafilm or something similar to cover the whole scion with,Peaches need all the help they can get sometimes. Brady

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#342

I was pressed for time, and donā€™t have any parafilm. Here are some Clayton grafts on White Lady/ Lovell. I wrapped one of them extensively with electricianā€™s tape hoping to keep more moisture in:

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ā€¦ and I tried some rind grafts too:

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#343

Here is Windblo on Blushingstar/ Halford:

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ā€¦ and this is Lady Nancy on Baby Crawford/ Citation:

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#344

Yeah I agree with Brady. I wouldnā€™t worry about parafilm on apples, pears or plums. But I always use it on peaches, the scions dry out fast. Even wrapping scion in plastic bag with a little water in it is better than nothing.

3 Likes
#345

Matt,

I agree with the comments on parafilm for peaches. Much better chance for successful grafting.

4 Likes
#346

when did you graft peaches this year, just curious as our spring was so cool this year.

#347

Derby,

It was very cool. There were a few times it was projected to be in the low 80s, or almost for a few days. I grafted peaches during those times.

I much prefer T budding peaches in the fall. Around September first is generally the best time for me here. Not too hot, by then, but still enough time for t buds to callus.

Here are some peach rootstocks planted from seed last summer. By September they are generally ready to graft. Some grass mixed in, so hard to see the peach seedlings.

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#348

Very informative, I have never tried t budding. I have just top worked and used a rind graft on a peach. I raised several peach seedlings this year so I may have to give t budding a try.

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#349

One reason why I think T-budding works so well is the temperatures are always good that time of year. Donā€™t T-bud on bigger stocks though, I never had good luck. Pencil or fat pencil stocks at the biggest, if the stock is big just bud higher up where its smaller.

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#350

Tony-

Looks awesome. Iā€™m not sure what iā€™m up to on my apricot, but i think its around 10 varieties. It is difficult keeping it balanced. The pluots want to grow like crazy.

I bought some aluminum and an engraver. Going to make tags.

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#351

I chip bud from early/mid July up until early Sept here. Havenā€™t noticed if the time changes much. I have seen buds take and start growing immediately and survive the winter.

#352

Yup. Same here, even on pomes.

#353

@scottfsmith, @Olpea, and those who T-bud, do you typically use your own budwood? Iā€™ve primarily grafted/rooted dormant scions. I T-budded an Owari Satsuma last year using budwood from my own, larger tree. Iā€™d like to give T-budding stone fruit a try but have wondered how well budwood shipped during summer. Iā€™ve had OK success grafting stone fruit with dormant scions but not nearly as much as with apples.

#354

Can you t bud with a bud you find on a growing tree? Kind of like the bud you find on a rose after it blooms? Closed , but ready to open soon.

#355

My impression is you always get a bud from a growing tree. And I have the same question as Brad, how well those budwoods ship to get a cultivar you donā€™t have?

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#356

I see, yes that makes sense, shipping them would be challenging

#357

Several years ago, Scott sent me green wood, I think 3 times, to try to T bud with a peach I wanted to try. Finally on the third attempt it took. Once I paid extra for two day shipping and Scott shipped the wood in a disposable cooler with an ice pack.

I canā€™t remember which wood actually finally took, but I remember every time temps didnā€™t cooperate. Much better to get a new variety from dormant wood. T budding works very well for multiplying varieties you already have.

I agree completely about trying to t bud large rootstocks. Doesnā€™t work that well. If the rootstock gets too big, best to cut it down and start over with a fresh one.

#358

For several years I got budwood from the USDA and it worked very well. But either do 2-day shipping or ship in a cool spell.

By the way you can harvest budwood as soon as you see some dormant buds in the crotches. It can happen surprisingly early, I recall budding a persimmon in June before and cutting the stock and getting a foot or two of growth the same season.

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#359

Mark,
When you sent me bud wood, I recalled the buds and the wood looked great. I thought a couple buds took but I did not know better and took parafilm off too soon in the soring. They dried out. Also, I did not know what I was doing about budding and that let to failure, not the quality of the buds.

I recalled you brought a cooler to your orchard to collect budwood for me. So, the budwood was protected. By the time they got to me, they still looked very good.

How many people brought a cooler to collect budwood for a friend, I bet not many. Thanks for your thoughtfulness.

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#360

I T bud in my greenhouse as early as the first of May, in May outside. All the stone fruit is easy with good technique and slipping bark. It works best on a current shoot of the rootstock and of course current scion wood. We can get 6ft of growth on the scion the yr they are budded.

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