2017 Grafting Thread

[ltilton]

This year I used the black Temflex tape but discovered that black is a dangerous color. I’ve noticed that 3M makes electrical tape in many colors, which would seem to be great for color-coding different varieties. And they say you can write on it

[Auburn]

Can I get excited now? I have seen so many post about late persimmon graft failures I’m cautiously optimistic about this one surviving. I added three scions and this is the only one that looks promising.

[BobVance]

This year I used the black Temflex tape but discovered that black is a dangerous color.

Is that because it overheated? Did you cover the union with parafilm? Given that parafilm is white, I would think that would reflect some of the light.

I’ve noticed that 3M makes electrical tape in many colors

Which product number has the different colors? The one I use is Temflex 2155. When I’ve been in HD/Lowes, the rubber electric tape is only in black. It’s the vinyl they have in all different colors. One of the things I like about the rubber is that it eventually stretches and rips, so I don’t need to remove it.

[NuttingBumpus]

My first season using Parafilm (half inch) and worried it would not work over a cleft graft of Court Pendu Rose onto Lord Lambourne. Yesterday found CPR opening leaves! SWEET! (My reaction: the apple is likely to be only mildly sweet.)
Success with Parafilm this year: Keepsake, GoldRush, Redfield, Court Pendu Rose. Time to drive all over and check other grafts on four other sites!

[mamuang]

For me, Temflex on small grafts needs to be cut off so it won’t girdle the graft union. It could be that with small scionwood, there is not enough energy to push Temflex out if the way. I don’t have problem with bigger size scion.

However, by the fall, if Temflex still looks tight on vigorously growinf grafts, I remove it anyway.

[ltilton]

Some pest that may be a bird is attracted to black and attacks the scions, pecking off the buds and breaking the sticks

The colored tape is the vinyl tape. I was thinking of applying it over parafilm to keep it from harming the bark

[scottfsmith]

Bravo! As long as it doesn’t get too hot the late persimmon grafts do well for me. But, 90F+ is no good!

My 2nd-round persimmons are looking good, all three varieties I am grafting are pushing now. I was a little worried it was a bit on the cool side, lots of days in the 60’s, but it worked out well.

[UnderDawgAl]

First-year grafter here. I only did apples. So far, 20 of 22 have definitely taken, with another two just grafted, so I don’t expect to see results for another week or so. I used a variety of techniques, based on the size of the scion wood and the rootstocks–bark, cleft, and whip-and-tongue. All have been fun to do.

Thanks to all for all the advice and pictures here on this forum. They have been instrumental in helping me.

Bean --found Mississippi apple (multiple grafts)
Captain Davis (multiple grafts)
Cauley
Johnson–found Mississippi apple (multiple grafts)
Umfress–found Mississippi apple (multiple grafts)
Hall
Slemp Limbertwig
Swiss Limbertwig
Royal Limbertwig

Awaiting evidence of Kentucky Limbertwig and an additional Bean having taken.

I still have six more M.111 rootstocks in the fridge. I’m going to graft to them using scion wood from the varieties above. If all take, I’ll give away some trees this fall.

[UnderDawgAl]

Is it too late in the year (mid-Atlantic, zone 7A) to do some bark grafting to large apple trees? Or can I try T-budding this early? I can’t let my leftover scion wood go to waste.

[Matt_in_Maryland]

T-budding will work if the bark is slipping. Are your extra rootstocks planted out? Or still semi-dormant in cold storage?

[Matt_in_Maryland]

I see you mentioned the understock are large apple trees. I would T-bud. Place the T-bud in a position of apical dominance and cut off anything above it. Also pinch back any competing leaders. Wrap tight to keep callous tissue in and the natural elements out. Just leave the bud exposed. Or you could even wrap that in a layer of parafilm if you want.

[Matt_in_Maryland]

Chip-budding would work too. Same principles applying.

[BobVance]

Is it too late in the year (mid-Atlantic, zone 7A) to do some bark grafting to large apple trees? Or can I try T-budding this early? I can’t let my leftover scion wood go to waste.

I think you should be fine. I just finished up grafting yesterday with 26 grafts, though only a few were apples. The next 7-10 days aren’t all that hot, so it should be pretty good conditions for some late grafts.

It could be that with small scionwood, there is not enough energy to push Temflex out if the way. I don’t have problem with bigger size scion.

You could be right, but I just figure that when it is bigger, it will push it out of the way. If I start seeing them fail, I’ll cut them. But so far, I like the lower maintenance approach. One other thing to consider is that for the smaller scionwood, I pre-strech the rubber a bit, as it is easier to apply. For tiny cleft grafts, I used to cut it down the middle (a strip 1/2 of the 3/4" width) too. But this year I replaced tiny cleft grafts with bark grafts, so no need to deal with such tiny/fragile connections.

More than girdling, I would think that the black on the bark could be an issue in the winter due to the heat-cold cycles. But, I suppose that most bark is close to black anyway.

[UnderDawgAl]

Are your extra rootstocks planted out? Or still semi-dormant in cold storage?

Both. I have two large apple trees, and I have dormant rootstock in the refrigerator. As well, I can graft to the neighbor’s crabapple (let’s make that thing useful!). Thanks for your responses.

[Matt_in_Maryland]

This ridiculous Frostbite graft has set a pair of apples.

[ltilton]

So far my Frankenapple project is looking more likely. Takes are 2 Fuji, 2 Red Fuji, 1 Hawkeye - plus 1 Fuji from two years ago and 1 from last summer.

Planning to bud where other grafts failed or broke

[jerry]

I suspect that Kentucky Limbertwig may be slower than average to show vigorous growth after grafting. Someone else here recently mentioned that their graft was slow, and I’ve observed the same myself this season. Mine only came around within the past week, long after its graft peers.

[Derby42]

I did a little late grafting this afternoon, had some leftover contender and plenty of rootstock so I figured why not. We have cooler than normal temperatures right now so I hope I get a couple of takes.

[tjasko]

This year, I stuck a bunch of random pear scion onto a callery in my woods. I’m still new to grafting, so I recorded what type I used to figure out what works best for me.

All of them took, even the ones I labelled “iffy cleft graft” where the base split all the way down. I’m not sure if there’s even any reason for me to bother with the more difficult whip/tongue at this point.

It’s kind of interesting to see how much insects seem to prefer the good pear varieties’ leaves to the callery, which they don’t eat at all.

I may have start clearing the area around this now, if it’s to be my new repository.

[Matt_in_Maryland]

I can finally say with more confidence that this Chestnut apple cleft graft has taken onto Pixie Crunch/ G.935. If you zoom in to the tip, you can even see it trying to flower.