2017 Grafting Thread


What are the peaches in the photo of the Coralstar scion?



They are supposed to be Reliance from Tractor Supply, but I’m not so sure. In fact I just wrote a post about them —>


I was going through this thread trying to find an answer to my question, but its so much info I thought I’d just ask. Sorry if its dumb or already answered.

I want to buy a new plum and a new apricot. I have room for two trees in the area I’m going to put them. If I buy a new, say Methley plum, can I then get Superior plum scionwood and graft it to the Methley to have both types? It seems scion wood is sent in the winter.? Could I T bud one type onto the other when I first plant the tree in the spring or when it starts to leaf out or do I need to wait until there are some branches growing to graft onto a branch?

I want to have two types of apricots for pollination but don’t have the room unless I graft.


Let me take a stab at it.
Methley is a Japanse/ Asian plum. Superior is a hybrid. Hybird plum can be grafted to a J plum.

Quite a few people do not like Methley for either taste or disease. In zone 7, maybe, you may wNt to grow Satsuma or weeping Santa Rosa instead.better taste, less problem.

T budding is usually done in the sumner July/Aug where you are. It is done by using this year’ s growth buds and place them on to a tree ( rootstock you want to bud on.
Spring grafting is done by using fully dormant scionwood that is collected during winter and sotred in a fridge waiting for a rootstock to arrive or your existing tree to leaf out before grafting.

Timing is important eap for grafting peaches. Other fruit trees like apple, pears, plums are more forgiving and have longer window for spring grafting,

Watch out on apricot. There are forum members who report a sudden death of apricot.

Some apricot can be grafted on peach trees. If you don’t buy an apricot tree, you can graft two different apricot varieties on a peach tree that you have.

Hope this help.


I guess my question is, if all I have is the Satsuma bare root tree delivered in a box and I have Toka scion wood, can I put those two together before even planting the bare root tree and have both varieties? Conversely, is it better to let the tree get acclimate for a year, then graft?

Thanks for the info. I researched the Satsuma plum and will give it a try. Weeping Santa Rosa is different than Santa Rosa, right?


It’s probably best to wait after planting and the weather starts warming,so that things are actively growing,sprouting leaves,etc.
That’s why mamuang mentioned storing scions in the refrigerator,until that time.
The bare root tree will most likely be about two years old and have some branching,so it should be okay to graft some to them. Brady



I only know something about grafting, not much, but am willing to share what I know.

I would do like Brady suggested, plant a bare root Satsuma and let it establish a bit. When it start leafing out, you could graft Toka on it. I personally won’t do it that way. I want a new tree to grow for a year and then graft the year after.

When a tree is newly planted in ground and starts to grow, sometimes, it does not don’t have enough energy to push for growth of a new graft (say Toka). That’s when a graft fails.

Don’t worry about acquiring scionwood, people here are generous. Usually, someone would be kind to give you the scionwood you want.

I saw you have a beautiful pear tree. If I were you, I would ask for scionwood of pear varieties you want over the winter and then graft those scionwood to your existing pear tree in the spring. The chance of successful grafting will be high.

There are a few threads about how to store dormant scionwood in the fridge so it would stay dormant (and not get modly) for a couple of months before you are ready to use it to graft.


Great, thanks that’s what I’ll do. I’ll plant, then add next year.

I plan on adding some pear varieties onto the pears I have. I need to get pictures of my other trees up, especially my Bartlett, which had the central leader snap off a the lightest touch. I now have a pear bush.:confused:


When scionwood is taken at the right time it lasts a long time! This is scion wood I took during deep dormancy which I kept in a humidity controlled crisper with water added to the bottom. This is nearly mid August! Why would anyone want to keep scion wood longer? I did not cut much scionwood this year because there was little time to cut it. As you can see only a single bud sprouted. My recommendation is buy or get scion wood from as far north as possible from someone who knows how to cut it and ship it during the coldest possible time. These scions are from my small yellow pear.



There are several way to shape trees. I am still learning how to prune. I don’t even wait for the central lead to snap off. I just cut it off because I do not keep my tree on a central lead style. It will be way to tall for me to pick fruit or spray.

I would like to keep my trees low… Some trees I keep them open-centered like peaches and other stone fruit. Some I do modified central lead method or other ways that I could keep them low and productive (not always successful)


I just came from the knife thread and immediately recognized this as a sketch of a straight razor :slight_smile:[quote=“Barkslip, post:935, topic:10100, full:true”]



Great advice Clark. Even in my area the scions keep longer than I have a desire to do any grafting.


ha ha ha ha. That’s pretty good @murky, lol.



My Frankenapple at last, grafted over from Enterprise

Still a few empty spots where nothing took on the first and second rounds, I’ll be going for three next year


I chip budded some red oak onto white oak. No different then doing an apple, plum, peach, cot… just line everything up tape and rubber band. I’ll report back in the spring if i get a take.

Just about done around here with budding. Everything i budded a few weeks ago still look good…


Won’t work. Whites and reds would be like a human getting a blood transfusion of the wrong type. I realize it’s an experiment but just so others know…



Huh…well then i’ll graft white oak to red oak :wink:


You’re almost there! :rocket:



One of my few successful grafts. This was harrow delight on a Flordahome pear…it’s not pretty but it worked…


You might look at this thread Harrow Delight Pear. The fact it took was not unusual because Harrow delight has old home as part of its genetics which is half the cross of the most famous pear Rootstock grown today old home x farmingdale ohxf . When grafting Harrow delight expect 100% takes. You can take that further and next year use an interstem of Harrow delight to graft nearly any other pear on your trees.