I used my USDA budwood to graft this to my wife gd-sister tree. We visited them again sunday and 1 take out of 10+ The results would likely have been hire if the grafting tape was removed in the spring…
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good information
If you topwork and not seal the exposed area and that part dries out it’s going to be deadWood forever, become subject to breaking down the road.
For me, the best way doing, graft 4 or 5 pieces of the same variety than pick out the strongest one to grow. In a short time the wound will complete seal to a strong tree.
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I am looking for some grafting advice. I have done apples last year. I had good luck for my first year. I heat up wax and coat the entire scion. I am looking to do some peaches and plums this in 2021. I want to do a experiment with grafting to a Krauter flowering plum. I want to graft plums and peaches to it. Has any grafted to a flower plum?
I was thinking of putting some whip and tongue to the top, and considering put some chip grafts about a foot under them grafts. (with dormant scionwood) any advice would be helpful
When you graft multiple scions around the same stem, how long is it before you cull down to one? And are there any intermediary steps (e.g. any sort of selective pruning prior to completely removing the extra stems)?
I have grafted plum, apricot, peach/nectarines, pluots onto my purpleleaf plum (Prunus cerasifera). All fruited.
But my purpleleaf plum branches aren’t stiff enough to uphold the weight of fruits. So most of my gratfed stone fruits branches pile on one to another with fruits. This could be the problem of my purpleleaf plum tree. It grows contorted with no central lead(could be cut by previous owner and the current tree/bush is from sucker)
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You will see the progress than decide when to get rid off the ones not needed. If than you want to add different varieties. It’s all a matter of time. For me, it’s never a good idea to grow multiple varieties unless you know if they are compatible in growth AND VULNERABLE TO DESEASES.
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Krauter plum is a variety of Prunus cerasifera (myrobalan). Any plum should work well on it. Apricots should be fine as well. I’m not sure about peaches, the grafts may take but long-term compatibility is questionable, might depend on which peach variety is grafted.
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Thanks Stan, that is real good advice.
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Here you can see example of peach graft onto plum rootstock :).
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We’re you saying 90s ever or just in first couple weeks. I’m in Texas we will have 100 Is there a time window you are referring to?
Did you get a chance to taste Ubeleen pear?
Now that i have a grafting tool, i can make a slope point on scion, and v into rootstock, like cleft.
And i can do the reverse…point on rootstock V into scion as shown.
Advantage to eithet way?
Thanks!
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I usually prefer the saddle approach with the grafting tool – why? because it is easier to hold while tying the graft together.
When doing the other way – cleft style, I find it harder to hold.
They should both work equally well.
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I find scion wood to often be more supple than the base wood, so I put the notch in the scion and the point on the base wood to allow easier compression of the graft.
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Wondering how your apricots have been doing? Tried trolling your history but could not find any updates.
I think it just depends on the situation which is more supple, but I like your reasoning. Let the rigid one have the point and the supple one the flaps, then when you wrap they will conform.
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I have been away for a long time I admit. Family and other responsibilities. That said my greenhouse has started up for the season and the apricots are looking good. I am searching for info on what a blossom bud looks like while dormant, but I might just have to wait till they swell. Those apricot trees are growing well, not much tip die and I have them now growing across the top of the greenhouse. I will post about their progress as spring goes on, we are still in minus territory during the day.
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